PFW: At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière Has Us Time
Travelling Again
For his Spring/Summer 2025 outing, Ghesquière uses the
renaissance to play with the concept of “soft power”
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
Held inside the main courtyards of the Louvre Palace in
Paris—and with a runway made entirely of LV trunks—creative
director Nicolas Ghesquière invited his guests to travel back in
time with him to the Renaissance. Drawing on his connection to this
era, having grown up in a centuries-old chateaux in France’s Loire
Valley, the first runway look comprised of an embellished blouson
with ballooning sleeves and a cinched-in waist. Striped, and with
regal buttons both down the front of the jacket and on its
puffed-up sleeves, accents from the bygone era were aplenty, albeit
balanced with contemporary chunky leather sandals.
In the spirit of travelling, a garment’s fluidity took
precedence: Billowing drop-waisted trenches floated atop the
trunks. Sheer, embroidered culottes with leather hems were
contrasted with feathered pumps. And the aforementioned blouse
jackets flowed with an ease that was soft but had shoulders which
were more than commanding. In this, Ghesquière was hell bent on
highlighting his fascination with the oxymoron “soft power.”
“Sartorial soft power can also be a striking back-and-forth
between two contradictory yet harmonious opposites,” the designer
writes in the show notes. “The suppleness of structure. Intractable
lightness. Mastering vibrations. Spidery depths. Ethereal opulence.
Razor-sharp delicacy. Resolute femininity. The mechanics of
fluidity…”
Soundtracked by Jamie xx’s new album In Waves, this
season, pictorial works by French conceptual artist Laurent Grasso
appeared on selected pieces. These reprise five paintings from the
series aptly entitled Studies into the Past.
See all the highlights from the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025
runway, and watch the show, below.
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Kristy Sparow/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the
Louis Vuitton Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of
Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by
Peter White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the LV
Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion
Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter
White/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – OCTOBER 01: A model walks the runway during the LV
Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion
Week on October 01, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy
Sparow/WireImage)