MFW: Even Mr. Giorgio Armani Can’t Escape The “Vibe Shift”
Soft fluidity and quotidian ease superseded extravagant
silhouettes in a collection told in three acts
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan,
Italy.
Despite trend forecaster Sean Monahan predicting a
“vibe shift” in early 2022, the
zeitgeist’s discombobulating pendulum swing from idolising
sensuality and debauchery (epitomised in the “night luxe”
aesthetic) to worshipping minimal quiet luxury has made it
difficult to discern exactly what the tone of now is.
But leave it to 89-year-old designer Giorgio Armani
to propose his sartorial hypothesis for what the “vibe” entails,
specifically that of the Spring/Summer
season for 2024.
Concluding Milan Fashion Week, Mr. Armani theorised that his
collection—entitled “Vibes”—was not that of a palpable energy, but
one of perennial vibration and movement.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan,
Italy.
“Everything vibrates: colors, sensations and
feelings,” the Italian design titan argued in his collection notes.
“This season, vibrations become visible,” he continued.
“They run across entire surfaces in undulating
movements and rippling weaves, they expand the chromatic scale to
touch notes of bronze and silver and light up in precious greens
and purples, only to arrive at a white that permeates the
evenings.”
The latter proposition summarised his point of
contention; a written manifesto of his energetic collection told in
three acts.
These acts, much like a traditional play, opened with
metallic fluidity before shifting into a concentration of rippling
blues, greens and purples and eventually concluding in a crescendo
of light-as-air pinks and angelic whites.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023 in Milan,
Italy.
Like the light hitting the surface of water before
daybreak—perhaps a force of nature Mr. Armani sees from the bow of
his 65-meter super yacht—the collection refracts the house’s
signature codes with everyday ease rather than exploring a prism of
glamorous evening wear.
While shapes aren’t tight or constricting, they
remain close to the body and oscillate between powdery suits and
diaphanous dresses. Jackets are as liquid as molten silk, trousers
as soft as an ocean breeze, yet contrasted in crisp finishing.
A sentiment Mr. Armani has echoed throughout his
entire career: women do not find solace in fragility, but
perseverance. The dualism between strong exteriors and romantic
silhouettes is Mr. Armani’s “vibe shift”.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 24: A model walks the runway at the
Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week
Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 24, 2023, in Milan,
Italy.