Of all the fashion week majors, London is often known to be the most avant-garde. Perhaps it’s the history of punk and resistance or perhaps its an antithesis to the aristocracy, or perhaps UK designers are just never short of boundary-pushing creativity. Whichever it is, the collections from new, upcoming, and boutique labels this week have been as thought provoking as ever.
Given their fingers on pulses, it’s fair to assume that the ideas we’re seeing via their digital and runway platforms will be indicative of the cuts, shapes and trends we’ll be vying for over the next couple of seasons. So just what should we be making room for in our (hopefully-sweatpants-free) fall winter 2021 wardrobes?
ROOMY, SLOUCHY VOLUME
Although Labrum
London is technically menswear, this conscious label (whose
clothing is devoid of trend and dedicated to the narrative of West
Africans) offered plenty of silhouette inspiration in their
utilitarian fall winter collection. Trousers of an oversized nature
have been gathering momentum in the last couple of seasons, however
styled here in a street-wise sophistication, this look raised whole
new reason to gravitate toward it.
ANTOINETTE COUTURE
Cosplay is once again finding place in the world of ready to wear.
Bora Aksu, the
Turkish, London-based designer drew inspiration from the French
Revolution for his fall winter faux-runway presentation. While the
aesthetic drew heavily from the era, it offered a dramatic escapism
we’re seeing more and more of this fashion season. Gowny dresses
with busy applique and lacy overlays, even tutu-tulle and
embroidered hosiery finished with solid boots offer a sort of
Crucible homage. Super fun, anti-minimalism.
UPSCALED FATIGUES
Punk in the age of pandemic makes perfect sense. A dystopian
uniform for our mood following a year of upheaval. Mark Fast, a veteran of
high end London street wear (in particular knitwear), lent his
prowess to slick combat couture this time. Bold puffas, bodysuits,
and sock boots, all with iterations of camo, seem apt for the
season. A blend of utility and sexy 90s mega-trends (the micro hem,
the macro boot) is a comfy return to renegade roots.
SCULLY BUSINESS
It’s likely that 2021 will be the suit’s most interpreted season.
Non-specific in both gender and destination (they have, for a
while, no longer been relegated to the office), its look is now
based on minutiae rather than genre as a whole. Eftychia Karamolagou’s eponymous label is well
regarded for tailoring and knitwear, and this season she’s offering
a slim-fit, bootleg, on-the-job variety that seems to harken back
to late-90s TV-detective uniform – Gillian Anderson in The
X-Files, or Angie Harmon in Law &
Order, perhaps. But it’s the flat-front, double French
fly trouser for us.
DISCO DRESS-UPS
Up-and-coming label, Sabirah
by Deborah Latouche, posed the idea of hope, healing, and
happiness for her fall winter presentation. Nodding to the 70s in
head-to-toe silk and gold-on-gold ensembles, such joie de vivre is
a welcome flip from last year’s ominous overtones. Make room for
decadent fabrics (which Latouche repurposes from existing
materials), languid shapes and some much needed disco therapy.
RE-SHAPED SUITING
As mentioned above, to cast suiting into one category these days
would be like saying this season dresses or jeans or pants are in
fashion. The suit family is ever-expanding, so we need to be more
specific. Maison Bent, the London-based label of McQueen alum,
Shanna Bent, is a self-described sustainable luxury brand. While
sustainability is probably the most important future
fashion trend, her take on traditional cuts is also progressive.
Expect to see her ilk a lot this season – styles with pop-outs and
A-symmetrical cuts and unique fastenings, the repurposed suit might
just be the fashion item of the year.
