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Light-wash jeans are back for fall, and with them comes the same question every year: which shoes? Black ballet flats feel too harsh against pale denim, and the red pair that everyone bought last season can quickly look like a costume. Model Elsa Hosk has just found the answer, and it sits somewhere in between.

The look: light denim, brown leather and two-tone flats

Last week, Elsa Hosk shared her outfit of the day on Instagram Stories. The Swedish model, a former Victoria’s Secret Angel, wore high-waisted, light-wash jeans from Helsa with a brown, cinched-waist leather jacket by Magda Butrym, The Row’s Marlo bag and Valentino sunglasses. On her feet: Chanel ballet flats in tan and brown, with a contrasting toe cap.

Everything in the outfit is warm, from the cognac leather to the caramel bag. The shoes are what tie it together. A solid black flat would have cut the silhouette at the ankle; a two-tone pair carries the warm tones of the jacket all the way down.

Why two-tone flats work so well with light-wash jeans

Pale denim is a soft, cool color, and strong solid shoes tend to fight it. Two-tone ballet flats do the opposite. The lighter body of the shoe blends with the skin and lengthens the leg, while the darker toe adds just enough definition to make the outfit look finished.

The trick is not new. In 1957, Coco Chanel introduced her beige shoe with a black toe precisely because it made the foot look smaller and the leg longer. Nearly seventy years later, the same optical effect is what makes Elsa Hosk’s flats look so right with cropped, pale jeans.

What about black and red flats?

They are not going anywhere, but they work better with other washes. Black flats are still the easiest match for dark indigo and black denim. Red flats, the pair Dakota Johnson made the shoe of the season, look best with mid-blue or white jeans, where the color can be the point of the outfit. With light-wash denim, a softer, two-tone shoe simply looks more polished.

Which jeans to wear them with

Elsa Hosk chose a high-waisted, straight cut that stops just above the ankle, which leaves room for the shoe to show. It is the shape that is replacing both skinny and wide-leg jeans this fall. Light-wash jeans have also been everywhere on celebrities lately: Hailey Bieber, Ayo Edebiri and Sabrina Carpenter have all worn them recently, mostly with pumps or ankle boots. Flats make the same idea easier to wear every day.

How to copy the look

  • Pick warm two-tone colors. Tan with brown, beige with black or cream with navy all work with pale denim.
  • Show the ankle. A cropped or slightly rolled hem lets the shoe do its lengthening work.
  • Repeat the brown. A leather jacket, a belt or a bag in the same family of browns makes the outfit look intentional.
  • Keep the top simple. A white tee, a fine knit or a crisp shirt is enough.
  • Not ready to invest? Several mainstream shoe brands now offer cap-toe ballet flats in the same spirit, at a fraction of the price of the Chanel pair.

And if you love a flat with a story, the ballet flats Audrey Hepburn wore are still made today.

The bottom line

Light-wash jeans are one of the easiest pieces to wear this fall, but the wrong shoe can make them look dated in seconds. Elsa Hosk’s formula is simple to copy: pale denim, warm browns and a two-tone ballet flat. Not black, not red, just the pair that makes everything else look better.