You have probably noticed it without being able to name it. Somewhere between the ballet-flat craze and the eternal white sneaker, a quieter shoe has been creeping into your feed. It looks like something a French musician would have worn in 1975 – and that is essentially what it is. The question now is not whether the jazz shoe is having a moment, but whether you are ready to retire your go-to flats in its favor. Because according to runways, street-style sightings, and some of fashion’s sharpest editors, this lace-up silhouette is already the shoe of autumn.
How dance-inspired footwear quietly took over the mid-2020s
If the past few seasons have taught us anything, it is that the dance studio has become one of fashion’s most reliable muses. Dance-inspired shoes have established themselves as a key footwear trend of the mid-2020s. It started with the ballet-pump revival, a nostalgic return to the delicate round-toe flat that dominated Instagram and city sidewalks alike. Then came ballerina trainers and the sportier sneakerina hybrids that blended athletic soles with dance-shoe silhouettes.
Now, jazz shoes are stepping into the spotlight as the niche footwear style poised to define the coming months. Like many emerging It items, this silhouette still goes by several names – oxford, derby, lace-up loafer – depending on who is describing it. But the defining characteristics remain consistent: a glove-like fit, a lace-front closure, and a barely there block heel. Classic white and black colorways nod to the split-soled slippers worn by 20th-century jazz dancers, yet they carry the everyday versatility of a modern white trainer.
So why are we paying attention now? Because when a shoe starts appearing on catwalks at Chanel, Ujoh, Pasqualetti, and Moschino for spring/summer 2025 – and then continues to sell out season after season – it is no longer a micro-trend. It is a shift.
From Mick Jagger to Celine: the heritage behind the hype
The jazz shoe is not exactly new. Repetto’s Zizi oxfords were first released in the 1970s and have long been a favorite of Mick Jagger and Serge Gainsbourg, lending the shoe a subversive, unisex appeal that feels remarkably modern today. The dancewear brand’s recent collaborations with Kaia Gerber have reignited interest in the style, building on previous partnerships with buzzy labels like Jacquemus and Marine Serre.
The momentum has only accelerated on the runway. After anchoring Michael Rider’s debut show at Celine, the brand’s lace-up silhouette continues to reach sell-out status. For spring/summer 2026, the shoe appeared across the runway in a range of colors – bright red, cobalt, and yellow – alongside the traditional black and white, signaling that designers see longevity, not just novelty, in this shape.
And the celebrity endorsements keep stacking up. Charlize Theron recently wore a cream-colored pair of jazz flats during a press tour in New York. Lily Collins slipped into a white pair for a day at the French Open. Gracie Abrams was spotted wearing black versions while out in London. Nicole Kidman chose a woven style to attend Wimbledon. When the shoe works across a red carpet, a tennis tournament, and a casual city stroll, you know its range is real.
Why fashion insiders are calling it the next viral flat
The endorsement goes beyond celebrity street style. Writer Leandra Medine Cohen described white oxfords as the Mary Jane successor and the next viral flat on her popular Substack newsletter – a verdict that resonated widely given her influence in the fashion-commentary space.
Harper’s Bazaar US executive editor Leah Chernikoff has spoken about how editor-in-chief Samira Nasr, whom she considers one of the best-dressed women on the planet, swears by a white shoe. According to Chernikoff, Nasr convinced her of the merits of what she calls the LWJS, or little white jazz shoe – a shoe that both stands out and goes with everything. The styling possibilities Chernikoff highlights are remarkably broad: jeans, tailored trousers, even an A-line skirt all take on a different character when paired with a white leather lace-up.
That kind of versatility is exactly what makes the jazz shoe feel different from previous dance-inspired trends. Ballet flats could skew precious. Sneakerinas sometimes leaned too sporty for a dressed-up look. The jazz shoe, by contrast, occupies a sweet spot – polished enough for the office, relaxed enough for the weekend, and distinctive enough to spark a compliment from a stranger on the subway.
What to know before you shop your first pair
If you are ready to try the trend, the good news is that options span heritage dancewear labels and high-fashion houses alike. Repetto’s Zizi oxfords remain the entry point with the deepest roots, while Celine’s lace-up versions offer a runway-approved upgrade in an expanding palette of colors. Whether you start with classic black or commit to a bold cobalt, the key details to look for are the same: that glove-like fit, a clean lace-front closure, and a low block heel that keeps you comfortable from morning to evening.
We are witnessing a footwear evolution that rewards those who move early. The jazz shoe has already graduated from niche curiosity to bonafide wardrobe staple in the eyes of designers, editors, and some of Hollywood’s most-watched women. The takeaway is simple – if you have been searching for a flat that feels fresh without demanding a complete wardrobe overhaul, the little white (or black, or red) jazz shoe might be the most effortless upgrade you make this season.
