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Soneva is a world-class trio of luxury resorts in the Maldives. We meditate on the properties’ uniquely glamorous allur, and meet the island doctors working to realign their guests’ health and wellbeing at their spas.
It takes just 22 seconds for the retractable roof atop our master bedroom to open and reveal the evening Maldivian sky; mesmerising, calming, a tapestry of stars studding a dark canvas. As there is minimal light pollution at Soneva Jani, even the shyest stars are visible to the naked eye.
This unique and unhindered four-by-four-metre window to the cosmos was developed in 2016 after Soneva’s founders, Sonu and Eva Shivdasani, found guests taking their pillows out to the decks of their villas to sleep under the stars. They sought to recreate this experience in the bedroom and, with the help of Dutch design agency Studio Arne Boon, stargazing at Soneva – from the plushness of your own king bed in your overwater villa – is one of many inimitable experiences in the Maldives today.
The glamour of a stay at Soneva begins at Velana International Airport, a short distance from the country’s capital city, Malé. From here, a seaplane offering one of the most scenic flights in the world will fly you across those famous azure waters to an open barge where a speedboat awaits to deliver you to Soneva Jani, Soneva Fushi or the newly opened Soneva Secret. It is along this journey that you will remove your footwear – there are no shoes at Soneva – and meet your ‘barefoot guardian’, a person dedicated entirely to curating luxury experiences for you, on call day and night.
Our barefoot guardian at Soneva Fushi was named Iby, short for Ibrahim. This witty, warm-hearted and well-presented man smiled through many a call: Could you please untangle my dress from my bicycle’s wheels? Can you please chauffeur me to breakfast… to my spa appointment… to the jetty, so I can catch the dolphin cruise? The list went on.
“We just got back to the villa and there’s a small snake at the door, should we be worried?” I texted Iby late one evening.
“No need to worry,” he replied 30 seconds later. “Would you like me to come over and take it?”
An island where no order is too tall – yes, even (non-venomous) snakes – and where time is set one hour ahead of Malé so guests can enjoy more daylight hours and make the most of the beautiful sunrises and sunsets. ‘Soneva time’, they call it.
FUSHI, JANI OR SECRET?
All Soneva properties in the Maldives offer overwater villas and island sanctuaries. The biggest decision you will make is choosing one. At Jani, my partner and I stayed in a two-storey, two-bedroom water reserve with a waterslide. Yes, a waterslide: a private slippery dip that runs from the top floor of the villa and delivers you into the iridescent waters of the lagoon below. The drama, the novelty, the childish excitement of it all.
Located in the Medhufaru lagoon in the Noonu Atoll, a winding maze of boardwalks connect Jani’s newer overwater villas to its main island. Lined in sustainable pine and teak – a purposeful design decision to minimise Soneva’s environmental impact – our 772-square-metre villa featured a predominantly white palette with accents of amethyst and coral blues.
Unique luxury is everywhere: the dining table was positioned atop a glass-bottom floor, perfect for viewing the little tropical fish swimming beneath your villa. Stacks of trunks conceal televisions at the foot of each bed. A vast deck with loungers, a swing and catamaran nets surround the private freshwater pool and offer vistas of your wildest (Maldives) dreams. As well as the room with the retractable stargazing roof, the other bedroom, upstairs, has its own balcony. A hyper-personalised questionnaire is even emailed to you pre-stay so the staff can curate the scent of your room or the villa’s book collection to your liking. Make no mistake, these are the most luxurious villas of their kind.
Over at Soneva Fushi, we stayed in a two-storey, two-bedroom Crusoe with a private pool, upstairs terrace, outdoor bathroom and steam room. On land and hemmed in by lush tropical greenery, the villa itself is actually by the beach, so mornings were spent swimming before enjoying a coffee on a lounge bed while taking in the stillness of the lagoon.
Fushi was established in 1995 on the Baa Atoll on Kunfunadhoo Island, one of the largest islands in the Maldives. As a pioneer for luxury, environmental responsibility and the ‘no news, no shoes’ philosophy, Soneva Fushi redefined tourism in the Maldives in the ’90s, and soon became known as the country’s premier island destination. Today, it boasts 72 overwater villas and island villas, has a castaway family vibe about it, and is home to some of the best sushi in the world. Although, like at Jani, bicycling is encouraged to get around, at Fushi you are treading the dirt tracks through the jungle reserve. It must also be noted that, aside from the world-class restaurants, stays with Fushi and Jani come with complimentary 24-hour access to refrigerated rooms with cheese, charcuterie and chocolate. There’s that childish excitement again.
Fushi also spearheads an impressive, purpose-built Eco Centro waste management centre. Here, leftover food becomes compost for the organic garden, cardboard is compacted and sent for recycling, and cans and plastic are transformed into art, building materials and other practical pieces. There’s even a glass studio in the main set of shops on the island which recycles wine bottles into glasses and artwork. Soneva properties currently recycle 90 percent of solid waste and are aiming for 100 percent by 2030.
BODY AND SOUL
A spa treatment at one of Soneva’s resorts is unlike any other. Dr. Ashley Aperocho is the naturopathic doctor at Soneva Jani’s spa, Soneva Soul. Her approach focuses on treating the root cause of a guest’s ailment by stimulating the body’s natural healing processes. Many of the treatments she offers fall under regenerative medicine, a cutting-edge field that encourages the body to repair damaged or ageing tissue. Dr. Aperocho’s work includes stem-cell therapy, hyperbaric oxygen treatment, sports medicine injections – such as prolotherapy and platelet-rich plasma – as well as aesthetic medical treatments like hair restoration and micro-needling.
“Since many of our guests are on holiday in the Maldives, the most common concerns I see among women are fatigue, stress and anxiety, pain – both acute and chronic,” says Dr. Aperocho. Before any treatment, she conducts a thorough review of her guest’s medical history, assesses any recent bloodwork or imaging, and, if the primary concern is pain or injury, performs a physical examination. This holistic approach allows her to develop a tailored treatment plan.
“Among the most popular treatments I offer women is major autohaemotherapy, an intravenous therapy where a patient’s own blood is used to deliver ozone into the body,” explains Dr. Aperocho. “Ozone (O₃) has powerful antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties.” Of course, there are also less intense treatments. Ayurveda is actually at the heart of Soneva Soul’s holistic wellness philosophy and is always a good practice to lean towards if the huge spa menu overwhelms you. In fact, Dr. Avarind, an ayurvedic doctor at Soneva Jani, cites many female guests using ayurveda to seek relief from hormonal imbalances, digestive issues, stress, insomnia, and joint pain.
One of Soneva Soul’s famous treatments is ‘shirodhara’, which involves gently streaming warm, medicated oil over the forehead, directly stimulating the third eye and calming the nervous system. “Shirodhara is particularly beneficial for anxiety, insomnia, and chronic stress,” says Dr. Aravind. “The rhythmic flow of oil soothes the hypothalamus, which regulates the pituitary gland, helping to balance stress hormones such as serotonin, noradrenaline, and adrenaline.” The result? A profound sense of inner calm, mental clarity, and overall well-being.
WHILE AWAY THE TIME
As Iby says, “Sharks in the Maldives are vegetarian”. So, when it came time to snorkel the Baa Atoll, I was a little more at ease. Accompanied by a very informative marine biologist, a small group of guests were taken via speedboat to a faraway reef. Here, we snorkelled alongside majestic native sea turtles as they feasted on jellyfish, snails, crabs, and shrimp. We saw starfish – cobalt blue in colour – rainbow fish and mantas gorging themselves on plankton. And yes, in the distance was a reef shark. While snorkelling is a must in any Maldivian location, paddling alongside a marine biologist is almost like watching a fantastical show with commentary. But that’s just how the experiences roll at Soneva: unique. Below are a few Soneva-exclusive activities to try during your stay.
Director’s Cut (Jani)
An overwater, open-air cinema is located in the still waters of the southern part of Soneva Jani. Here, while watching a famous film across the lagoon, the most incredible Japanese food is served to you. Think modern-style sashimi, black cod and other favourites with a contemporary twist. The cocktail menu is also superb. Try the saffron and lychee martini.
Sunset Dolphin Cruise (Fushi and Jani)
A small group of guests is transported to the middle of the ocean at sunset to watch pods of playful dolphins traverse the front of the boat. We were lucky enough to see pods dancing, splashing and putting on a show. And even if you’re not fortunate enough to spot a dolphin, being on the water at sunset with a flute of prosecco in hand is pure joy. Overseas by Mathias Dahlgren (Jani) From the mind of acclaimed Swedish chef, Mathias Dahlgren, Overseas’ menu is an ode to organic produce and the ocean. While sat at a table atop a glass floor, dine on pescatarian, vegetarian, and plant-based single plates, sharing plates, and signature dishes for lunch and dinner. Try the avocado salad, the fish and seafood à la plancha, and the pumpkin and broccoli.
Out of the Blue (Fushi)
This was perhaps my favourite spot of all. Perched atop netting which sits right out over the waves, we munched down on the best sushi in the Maldives. I ordered the salmon poke bowl more than once, washed down with a matcha margarita composed with matcha, gingko, American ginseng, lime, honey, coconut water and orange.
Once Upon a Table (Fushi)
World-class chefs are flown into Soneva for special residencies. You can catch them at Once Upon a Table, an eight-seater long table/culinary theatre with views out over the Indian Ocean. The catch is that there’s no menu – just sit back and delight.
Diving (Fushi and Jani)
With more than 30 spectacular dive sites near the resorts, the Soleni Dive Centre’s multilingual PADI instructors and the small dive group sizes ensure that you get a world-class experience, whether it is your first or your hundredth dive.
Cinema Paradiso (Fushi)
After dinner, we caught a film – the 2018 horror flick A Quiet Place – at the open-air theatre at the beach. While the movie’s subject matter didn’t quite dovetail with the gently lapping waves, it really was a wonderful way to cap-off an adventure-filled day. Popcorn and over 60 flavours of ice-cream are available.
Turtle Rehabilitation Centre (Jani)
Soneva and the non-profit charity Olive Ridley Project have partnered to open the Noonu Atoll Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Centre at Soneva Jani. At this facility for injured or sick sea turtles which do not require intense veterinary care, guests are invited to learn about the turtles’ rehabilitation process before they are returned to the wild.
LETTING YOU IN ON A SECRET
Soneva Secret is the newest property from the luxury pioneer and offers the spectacle of Jani with the modern, albeit rustic, beauty of Fushi. Located in the sparkling waters of the Maldives’ Makunudhoo Atoll, just 14 villas, each of which are either overwater or beachfront – plus a first-of-its-kind ‘floating’ villa on stilts – make up this exceptional property. It’s a firm fixture on my to-try list.
Now home in Australia, it’s hard to fathom that we share the same stars as those in the four-by-four-metre window in my bedroom ceiling that evening. As that portal could attest, the Maldives is just as beautiful at night as it is by day. But a trip to Soneva? Well, it truly is otherworldly.
