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Just like many other fashion houses, Jil Sander is ushering in a new era with a new creative director. And with Simone Bellotti’s debut for the house taking place in Milan last week, it’s safe to say the future is bright.
Shown back at the house’s headquarters, a former cinema turned into a three-storey space, the set was covered in white with a single black arc lining the runway, while Bochum Welt’s electronic music played in the background.
The Spring/Summer 2026 collection put strong silhouettes first. Jackets buttoned high with their lines occasionally interrupted by raw hems and carefully engineered folds. Dresses and skirts were finished with clustered strips of georgette that were meant to create the effect of a book’s pages flickering in motion. The architecture came from double-faced leather and weightless wool, while zip-up knits, taut jumpers, and crisp shirts seemed perfect to add to the wardrobe for layering.
Colour and texture were a major part of the line-up, with a palette that varied from sober neutrals to dusty pastels and a handful of brights, and fabrics. Simone also seemed to play with different opacities, slits, and cut-outs, especially seen in the dresses.
The house stated that the idea of “armour” had inspired some of the materials, with mirrored leather, metallic sequins, and precious silks folded to shield the bust and hips, evoking a sense of protection while keeping the clothes light. In typical Jil Sander taste, accessories included square-toed lace-ups, cut-out ballerinas, kitten-heeled brogues and pared-back sandals. The handbags followed the same tenets with multipurpose shapes, including the new Pivot style.
With Milan as home base, over 70 boutiques worldwide, and its recent opening in the UAE, the show confirmed that the label’s era under Simone Bellotti is one to watch out for.
