In the true spirit of travel that the house was founded on, Nicolas Ghesquière has, for the first time, taken his runway to Shanghai, China, for the Pre-Fall 2024 collection presentation.
Held at the Long Museum, owned by husband-and-wife collectors Mr Liu Yiqian and Ms Wang Wei, the setting is named for its elongated funnel shape and houses the largest private art collection in China, including traditional, modern and contemporary Chinese art, Chinese revolutionary art, and contemporary works from Asia, Europe and the United States.
Against its stark white walls and smooth concrete, an exuberance of colour and history exploded onto the runway as the creative director travelled through the archives of the French maison, reviving the distinctive emblems that continue to endure while paying tribute to the vibrant creativity of its host country.
Opening the show was a set of looks featuring inflated animal profiles on dresses, skirts and coats. These whimsical figures are part of a collaboration with Sun Yitian, a Beijing-based contemporary artist.
Ghesquière, who was celebrating a decade at the house’s helm when designing this collection, played on the contrast that underpins the city’s renowned street style, characterised by a balance of refinement and audacity. Throughout the collection, timeless details are emboldened by structural, modern silhouettes, imparting the enduring charm that Louis Vuitton holds with grungier styles and pieces riffing on utilitarian aesthetics paired with abstract florals and feminine frills. No, you won’t find the latest ‘core’ trend in these looks, as Ghesquière has always found his language within the otherwise undefinable.
Accessories tell the story of Louis Vuitton better than anything. In this narrative, we see almost a chronicle of iconic styles reimagined for now. The Petite Malle, the Twist, the OnTheGo, the Diane, the Loop, the Side Trunk, the Atlantis, the Noé, the Cannes, and the Camera Box—as well as the Capucines and the Dauphine—begin fresh chapters and are revived in flexible formats. Meanwhile, the Slim Trunk makes a splash with its timely debut.
