Foggia

FOGGIA, ITALY BY CATERINA DELLI CARRI:

“There is a phrase that I am fond of because my grandfather used to say it,” recalls illustrator Caterina delli Carri. “‘A chi appartìne?’ Translated to English, it means, ‘Who do you belong to?’ This phrase is used a lot in Foggia to ask someone about their family, to know their origins.”

Visitors to the cerulean waters of this southern Italian city are dwarfed by Foggia’s ancient churches and palaces, so numerousthey make you wonder what the city’s eldest inhabitants did beyond worshipping and curtseying and drinking. A city and commune of Puglia, delli Carri tells of the wonderful upbringing she had in Foggia; the Baroque and Romanesque buildings, the trips to the local second-hand market – “Le Pezze” – with her mother for vintage buys, the boundless wheat fields that connected the city to her family’s country house by the sea.

“My illustration represents a view of the historical centre of Foggia,” explains delli Carri. “The cathedral bell tower and a viewof the rooftops is the most beautiful and inspiring part of the city, especially at sunset, when everything is coloured with pink and orange tones.”

The city’s scent – best experienced along its oldest street, the beautiful Via Arpi – is one of “embers, typical of the kiosksscattered in the streets of the city,” delli Carri says. “When the world opens up, get lost in Foggia’s narrow streets, try its typical restaurants and trattorias and let yourself be overwhelmed by the local nightlife.” She also suggests picking a handwoven basket.

“The fibres used for the weave of the bags are olive and cane, and the weave represents an ancient art where each piece made is unique,” the artist says. “These baskets are also often used as decorative elements for the walls of houses and restaurants.”

Yes, while Manfredonia, Monte Sant’Angelo and San Sevaro are popular tourist destinations, delli Carri says nothing beats abottle of grape and Scaldatelli, a traditional snack made from flour, extra virgin olive oil, grape, salt and fennel seeds.

“The typical ones of my area are called “Scaldatelli” and besides the classic taste there are a lot of variations! My favourites are thepotato ones!” she says. Of course, don’t miss the sunset.

Follow Caterina delli Carri @caterinadellicarri

SHOP THE CITY

Scaldatelli https://www.agrodolce.it/ricette/taralli-scaldatelli/