Streetwear—the preferred domain of Givenchy’s creative director Matthew Williams—is the type of clothing that concerns itself with practicality. The trousers are wide-legged and full of pockets so you don’t have to lug around a handbag. The shoes are flat and chunky so they’re viable for skating (or to signal to strangers that you might be a skater). Hoodies are oversized because they’re comfortable—and warm. It’s an approach to aesthetics that, on the surface at least, sits at odds with the highly stylised, ultra-feminine creations of Givenchy’s founder and namesake, best known for the sophisticated eveningwear he crafted for silver screen stars like Audrey Hepburn and Charlotte Rampling. For fall winter 2022, a collection presented at the La Dèfense Arena outside of Paris, Williams aimed to bridge that gap. 

It all started with Breakfast At Tiffany’s. Williams placed the iconic shot of Hepburn in a black Givenchy dress and string of pearls, gazing lovingly into the Tiffany & Co. Madison Avenue storefront, at the centre of his new season moodboard. “I wanted to create a synthesis between a powerful and sophisticated femininity that interacted with American and Parisian influences, sports and craftsmanship,” he told GQ. That meant a string of pearls re-imagined for the modern Givenchy woman: oversized, onyx black, and embellished with subtle crystal detailing. In this iteration, the aforementioned little black dress was sheer and worn with thigh-high leather boots, or strapless and satin, styled with leather glove-style pumps and chunky face jewellery. 

Elsewhere, more recognisable staples from the Williams appeared, though they too had a noticeably more refined quality. Deconstructed ‘band tees’ (a nod to Williams background as a creative director in the music industry), were styled with perfectly-cut straight-leg leather trousers, beautifully-tailored black long-line blazers. Cascading floor-length coats were fitted with oversized pockets. Hoodies were cropped and styled with Hepburn-esque beige trench coats and loose tailored pants. “It’s just about today. My work is really instinctual,” Williams told press backstage—a fact that has been evident in each of his outings since being announced creative director of Givenchy in early 2020. His vision for the French house is rooted firmly in the present, but today he proved a little nod to the past is never a bad idea. 

Givenchy Fall Winter 2022
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Bella Hadid walks the runway during the Givenchy Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 06, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Givenchy Fall Winter 2022
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Givenchy Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 06, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Givenchy Fall Winter 2022
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Givenchy Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 06, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)