Giorgio Armani is a giant in the global fashion world, but in his native Italy, he’s one step up from that: a titan of industry and an endless source of national pride. It’s something you notice the moment you arrive in Milan—there’s a large ‘Armani’ sign over the terminal when you land at Malpensa airport. His presence at Milan Fashion Week is that of a wisened patriarch, someone who watches all the madness unfold, while continuing to present collections that are simply, powerfully, and unapologetically Armani.
Such was the case for the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2023 collection, which was unveiled at the brand’s sprawling Via Bergognone show space this weekend. Mr. Armani’s staying power in an industry as fickle as fashion lies in the fact that he knows what his customers truly want, and S/S ’23 showed his signature marriage of luxury, style, and pragmatism. The jacket, for example, was an important thread through the 64 looks—sharply tailored blazers in cotton and breezy linen (a long-standing Armani signature), cropped satin evening jackets, cropped military jackets, slouchy kimono-style jackets.
Elsewhere, geometric prints appeared on chic silk separates, baggy jumpsuits were cinched at the waist with statement square-buckle belts, and shirting was cleverly deconstructed, transformed into summer-appropriate cotton day dresses. The daytime accessories included raffia totes and—adorably—matching raffia berets, worn with sensible loafers with gold buckle detailing and woven strappy sandals. Of course, it isn’t an Armani show without eveningwear—the final looks included fabulous cascading gowns. Many were sheer, strapless, or carefully embellished with sequins and floral appliques, and were styled over loose satin trousers for a heightened sense of casual glamour.
Image: Courtesy of Armani