Balaclavas made huge strides last year, specifically Miu Miu’s crocheted crochet hood and face-covering. According to the Lyst Index Q4 report, this cutesy head covering was one of last year’s most searched fashion items and the style’s popularity has slowed since then. Head coverings are taking over the runway, social media feeds and directing critical culture conversations. We’re looking into what made Miu Miu’s crocheted face-covering pop, who is wearing it and where it will go from here.
Miu Miu’s impact on the balaclava trend has been massive, but it’s not the only brand doing it today, nor was it the first to do it; Gucci and Calvin Klein released their own on the runway in 2018. Now we’re watching as countless brands incorporate the style into their new collections, like Dion Lee and Proenza Schouler. Off the runway, celebrities like Suki Waterhouse and influencers like Sterling Monètt have also come to embrace the trend. This type of airtime drives balaclava searches online and cements its status as one of the most desirable fashion items of 2021.
The widespread acceptance of the balaclava has been met with critique from Arab and Muslim communities and activists. They’ve been quick to point out that when a head-covering is a balaclava, it’s quickly accepted in the public arena, but when the head-covering is a hijab, it’s met with hostility. This discrepancy has opened a public conversation that actively interrogates this double standard. An example of this is Vogue France’s praise of Julia Fox’s headscarf during Paris Fashion Week, despite the country’s harsh bans on the religious face and head-coverings. It’s a reminder that fashion trends are not just about what’s popular — they’re a tool for stirring up meaningful conversations about society and a reflection of our values.
One of the collective values of balaclavas, specifically Miu Miu’s, is that it appears handmade, a manufacturing style associated with slow fashion practices and sustainability. Its crocheted design technique shows our continued interest in craftsmanship, which took off during the early stages of the pandemic. We’re comfortable with face coverings and are getting more creative with how we make them, from bunny-eared balaclavas sold on Depop to the intriguing styles at New York Fashion Week this season. It’s a fashion item that continues to evolve and stay relevant and we’re excited to follow its continuing story.
