The teaser for 16Arlington’s Fall/Winter 2023 fashion show was a short video that showed an eye in close-up. Fitting, then, that the collection was named “Wake”, an ode to looking at the world through alert and consuming eyes. Some elements of that theme were literal—the show’s Bloomsbury venue was scattered in coffee grounds, their scent permeating the room—other were more subtle. This was creative director Marco Capaldo’s first foray into menswear, awakening a new chapter for the young British brand.
The menswear came courtesy of sharply tailored blazers, appropriately zhushed up with hemlines embellished with floral appliquès. Pleated trousers were styled with sheer sequin shirts (lest we forget 16Arlington are London’s brand du jour for opulent after-dark dressing), and suits were finished in flashy satin in a fabulous shade of chocolate brown. The restraint of menswear was seen throughout the womenswear pieces too: cropped jackets finished in faux croc skin, and elegant knee-length pleated skirts (with optional thigh-high splits for post-work partying).
Still, Capaldo’s best work will always be eveningwear. This season the dresses had plunging necklines—sheer creations with delicate Art Deco-style sequin embroidery. Some were red carpet ready (cue: dramatic feather detailing at the waist), but others blended the lines of glamour and ‘everyday’—styled over short shorts or tailored work pants. The takeaway was clear: so-called “naked” dressing isn’t just for A-listers at the Met Gala. It’s an attitude of sartorial liberation that we can all integrate into our own everyday wardrobe. Let’s call it IDGAF-core—but unlike Barbie and cottage, it’s here to stay.
