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For a brand that once defined American fashion with clean lines, provocative campaigns, and that unmistakable air of effortless cool, Calvin Klein has been notably absent from the runway. It’s been years since the house last took centre stage at New York Fashion Week, leaving behind memories of Francisco Costa’s refined minimalism and Raf Simons’ cerebral Americana. But now, under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni, Calvin Klein is back — with a collection that reclaims its DNA while pushing it into a new era.
Tasked with revitalising the brand’s high-fashion identity, Leoni’s debut for Fall 2025 is a recalibration. Stripping Calvin Klein back to its essence, she embraces what the house has always done best: sharp tailoring, sensual ease, and a certain no-nonsense cool. Think of the quintessential Calvin moments — Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg in those ‘90s ads, Brooke Shields’ unforgettable denim campaign, the stark sensuality of a slip dress in the ‘00s. This collection taps into that same understated allure but refines it for now.
The Fall 2025 Collection
At its core, the Fall 2025 lineup is a study in what Leoni calls “monumental minimalism” — a phrase that perfectly encapsulates the brand’s impact on fashion. Outerwear is a standout, with weightless trenches, structured capes, and precision-cut Crombie coats setting the tone. The power suit, another house signature, appears in three silhouettes: slim and elongated, boxy and cropped, or draped and enveloping. Meanwhile, classic branded underwear makes its way into ready-to-wear, appearing in sheer slip dresses, slouchy knit Henleys, and barely-there tailoring.
The collection’s colour palette stays true to the brand’s signature neutrals — shades of black, grey, and off-white — punctuated with unexpected flashes of raspberry and pale citron. Fabrication plays with contrast, mixing the sleek with the raw: dense wool, crisp gabardine, brushed cotton, and liquid satin all interplay to create a tactile dialogue between structure and softness.
Presented in Calvin Klein’s longtime headquarters in New York’s Garment District, the runway setting was intentionally intimate. A plush carpet, hand-carved with the brand’s new logo, grounded the space — an understated nod to both legacy and reinvention. The logo itself, redesigned in collaboration with M/M (Paris), is a refined take on classic its branding, balancing modernity with heritage.
For Leoni, who has previously honed her minimalist vision at Jil Sander and The Row, this debut is a statement of intent. “My goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of monumental minimalism,” she explains. And with this collection, she has done just that — offering a sharp, self-assured take on Calvin Klein that feels both nostalgic and undeniably new.
