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“In a chaotic world, we thought about what ‘effortless’ means now. Clothing that frees up space in your mind” wrote Tory Burch in her show notes. And in the newly opened Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation in the American Museum of Natural History, the designer presented her unique interpretation of ‘easy dressing’.
Over the last few years, there’s been a major shift in the House of Burch, with the designer moving away from her métier of dressing prepsters, and entering a new era of experimentation. For Spring/Summer 2024, Burch brings enlightened ideas to the runway with expert precision. Defined by modular tailoring, dynamic layers that build structure and volume without bulk, and playful morsels of humour, the collection highlights a side of Burch we’re sure to see more of in seasons to come. One that builds on her reputation for flattering women’s bodies and finds new ways to achieve this.
Though it wasn’t noted as an inspiration, retrofuturistic details reminiscent of Pierre Cardin were reoccurring motifs throughout the looks. In crinoline details, plunging U-necks, hip-hugging clutches and wraparound sunglasses, the movement of garments felt wearably retro in a way few designers have managed to nail. From collarless coats and micro hemlines to flat footwear, ’60s tropes were reenvisioned for a future more closely in our grasp.
As Burch noted, the collection was designed to “instil a sense of lightness and optimism,” and this took on a literal form in weightless outerwear, organza, delicate crochet and draped jersey. A serene colour palette of emerald, indigo and cool variations of grey and beige brought a sense of calm and simplicity to otherwise intricate pieces.
Accessories were paired back but held their own. Cow earrings and bells on dresses showed us that Burch wasn’t taking things too seriously, but revised iterations of signatures marked the designer’s evolution. The ‘Fleming’ handbag—a brand icon since 2014—made its runway debut as a minaudière, while the ‘Deville’ bag, a staple of Fall/Winter 2023, also returned with new exterior treatments and hardware.
