Since taking the reins in October 2019, creative director Walter Chiapponi has been quietly crafting a cohesive and singular aesthetic for the Italian luxury fashion house Tod’s. ‘Quiet’ being the operative word, because Chiapponi’s view of luxury is the kind that whispers, never shouts. For fall winter ‘22, a collection titled ‘Italian Beauty’, he took things a step further, cutting the collection down to 44 looks a couple of days before the runway presentation in Milan. “I decided to strip down and reduce the collection, making it more essential,” he told press. “It isn’t time for frivolity, really.” 

That austerity played in Chiapponi’s favour—FW ‘22 felt truly considered, a kind of modern uniform for the back-at-work woman who loves fashion, but isn’t a slave to its whims. The show opened with Gigi Hadid in a chic black suit, cut surprisingly slim on the leg (an homage to the ‘90s) with an on-trend split to reveal chunky, lug-soled loafers. That focus on smart tailoring, weatherproof outerwear, and office-friendly silhouettes was on display throughout the collection. Cue: fabulous oversized wool capes, knitted day dresses with playful zipper cut-outs, shrunken teddy bomber jackets, and bermuda shorts in supple black and brown leather.

The exploration of Italian glamour also extended to the Tod’s archive, which Chiapponi mined and then re-invented, particularly with the accessories offering. A laced ankle boot was reworked in suede and cut higher up the leg; the rubber weave detailing from the iconic Tod’s Gommino loafer were spotted on outerwear; and the ‘D-Styling’ bag, first made famous by Princess Diana in the ‘90s, was deconstructed and had its lining removed, transforming into a multifunctional handbag, finished in soft leather (“easy to toss into a suitcase,” the designer quipped to WWD). Designers seem to be laser-focused on their core customers this season, not on lapping up the attention of social media. Tod’s was a reminder that in this new world order, it pays to be consistent.

Tod's Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Tod’s
Tod's Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Tod’s
Tod's Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Tod’s