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For her first Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri put the body before the clothes. Opening with E. E. Cummings’ famous line, “I like my body when it’s with your body”, she set the tone for a collection focused on intimacy and the space where masculine and feminine meet.
The starting point was underwear, treated as a layer that conceals or reveals. Lace, embroidery, and colour brought a sense of pleasure and playfulness to dressing, while Raffaella Carrà provided a spirited reference point. The Italian pop icon’s unapologetic approach to performance and sexuality reflected a message Chiuri knows well: that clothes can be a form of independence.
On the runway, gender boundaries blurred in similar ways. Men and women shared silhouettes and styling, while garments slipped between categories. Think dressing gowns venturing onto the street, velvet meeting parchment, animal print meeting silk, and glossy surfaces colliding with matte ones. Jewel shoes added a little sparkle to the otherwise deliberately unruly mix.
Most notably, there was no prescribed way to wear any of the pieces. Instead, Chiuri offered a wardrobe built around movement, layering, and contradiction, where clothes didn’t constrain the body but gave it room to be whatever.
Mirrors also became another recurring motif, drawing on Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi and turning the runway into a shifting landscape of reflected figures. It was a fitting device for a collection concerned with how we see ourselves, as well as one another.
