Australia has never been slow to recognise the immense talent of our neighbours across the Tasman. Known by its Māori name, Aotearoa, the island may be small, but it’s the birthplace of some of our most beloved brands—Wynn Hamlyn, Paris Georgia, Maggie Marilyn and Kate Sylvester, to name a few. With a culture steeped in tradition and a thriving creative scene, the fashion industry in NZ has always platformed a fresh perspective that accommodates the needs of its consumers, offering us bold designs that flatter but never compromise on functionality.

And in 2023, after a three-year hiatus due to the pandemic, New Zealand Fashion Week has returned to Auckland with a fresh batch of veteran and up-and-coming designers who are set to be catapulted to fame in no time. Across three days, sixty brands brought their all to the main stage at the Viaduct Centre for Kahuria on the city’s pristine harbour. And as front-row guests to the event, we’re here to let you in on the newcomers sure to become household names.

Ahead, six up-and-coming designers to keep high on your radar.

Rory William Docherty

Before his first designs set foot on the runway, Rory William Docherty was a name on everyone’s lips. Quietly lauded as an IYKYK creative who pours a plethora of design skills into his pieces, the local designer’s work was put under the microscope on Day One of NZFW. As models passed us showgoers by, swanning in billowy blouses and finely tailored separates, it was clear that the hype was warranted. And while it would be easy to lean into the theatrics of Fashion Week, Docherty played it cool, staying true to his artistic intentions and only putting forward what could genuinely delight.

With shirting that featured original hand-drawn and painted artworks, premium Italian wools and cashmere constructed with the utmost care, and the playful restoration of old Levis 501s with a linen drawstring waist and pocket—a highlight of the collection—it was a debut to remember. As Rory William Docherty branches out its curated selection of stockists around the world, we’re tipping this one as a name to keep eyes on.

Campbell Luke

A newborn baby graced the runway for Campbell Luke‘s NZFW debut. Another name that was set to be a ‘can’t miss’ of the week, designer Bobby Campbell Luke brought us a moving presentation of his ‘He Oranga Ngākau’ collection.

Showcasing a selection of finely crafted silhouettes of marvellous volume—each look impeccably balanced with texture and shape—the designer aimed to forge a bridge between worlds, one where healing from the past could see a way forward.

After the final look left the stage, The Casketeers star Kaiora Tipene carried her week-old newborn in a woven blanket by Māori wool company Noa Blanket Co for a special closing of the show that flooded the crowd with emotion.

“We are proud to present a new collection in honour of a beloved Brother, Dad, and Son,” the designer said. “This collection captures the essence of equilibrium, harmony, peace, and restoration.” It embodies the event’s core themes and project, aptly named ‘He Oranga Ngākau’, a reference to trauma-informed care specific to the Māori experience. Frankly, beyond the beautiful clothes, there was hardly a dry eye in the house.

Lydia Paine

After being inspired by her grandparents’ skills in knitting, smocking and cobbling, Lydia Paine purported to create a brand that played on a bond between people and material. Silhouettes were inspired by the comforts of home, and it showed in cosy knits, airy sheaths, and relaxed tailored separates that still felt polished.

The collection ‘Mother & Mode’ was presented as part of the Kahuria Graduate Show, in which students from various design universities were platformed for buyers, media and beyond to see. Though the pieces have been part of Paine’s arsenal for a while, now seems like the perfect time for a launch.

Oosterom

A made-to-order brand built on ambitions to create impact-free clothing, Nicole Hadfield proved just how fun sustainability can be with her label Oosterom.

Part of New Zealand Fashion Week’s ‘Next Gen’ show, the designer quickly established a unique aesthetic that blends feminine pieces with utilitarian cuts and Y2K-inspired details in a considered styling process that would make anyone double take.

If you ask us, it’s a space to watch.

Su’Mar

Su’mar was a delightful surprise with the same Next Gen show. Boasting capsule collections and made-to-order pieces that are produced locally in Auckland, garments are produced with a deep consideration of wearers, with each garment tested for its purpose and how it translates into life.

Within the curated collection, we saw crushed silks, ethereal drapery, polished pleats and soft tailoring that gave looks an element of intrigue.

James Bush

From the moment a panelled red satin coat made its way onto the runway, we knew James Bush was one to watch.

After completing an MA in menswear at the University of Westminster, London, in 2018 and gaining a place in the British Fashion Council’s prestigious graduate programme, New Zealand-born James Bush launched his own eponymous fashion line in 2021. Now, with a NZFW debut within its Next Gen presentation, the name is certainly going to be surfacing in Australia soon enough.

Within his offering, sculptural tailoring, foiled details and subversive office separates made a lasting impression.

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