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Miuccia Prada had a nice-to-have problem for Miu Miu’s fall winter 2022 collection. Her last runway, presented in October, sent the fashion world into a proverbial meltdown, and her micro-short mini skirt and cropped sweater sets have gone on to become the defining look of the New Year. So ubiquitous is the impact of Miu Miu S/S 22 that there are entire Instagram accounts dedicated to pieces from the collection. Everyone from Zendaya to Nicole Kidman, Lorde to Hailey Bieber, have dabbled in the look. Call 2022 the Unofficial Year of Miu Miu. So how does a designer follow up such an iconic collection? Prada had a choice—to pivot in an entirely new direction, or double down on an aesthetic that has taken the fashion industry by storm.
In the end she chose c) both at once. The new collection, which closed out fashion month in Paris yesterday, opened with that signature new look: low-rise hyper-micro pleated skirts, worn with ab-baring shrunken sweaters or cropped tailored shirts. This time, the sets paid homage to the tennis court, courtesy of a crisp white colour palette with sporty red and blue stripes, and skirts that resembled the soft pleated numbers stars like Venus Williams, who sat front row, are likely to wear at Wimbledon. Elsewhere, shrunken Argyle sweaters, cable knit fleeces, and ballerina slippers worn with thick knitted socks added to the ‘Sunday sports-goes-chic’ sensibility. Game, set, match to Miuccia Prada.
Fashion geeks were also treated to a squeal-inducing moment when Mrs Prada dropped a surprise array of menswear looks into the collection. Miu Miu’s ill-fated foray into men’s is the stuff of legend among those in the know. The brand shuttered the offering in 2008, but resurrected it for FW ‘22 in the shape of leather aviator jackets, low-rise snakeskin trousers, and oversized tweed blazers. Sound like pieces you’d want to wear yourself? That’s kind of the point. This new iteration of ‘Miu Miu Mens’ is unconcerned with the gender binary. The crystal-embellished dresses, the chunky flat platform loafers, the micro leather shorts—all the pieces will be sized for men, women and non-binary Miu Miu stans. Put simply? Expect another Miu Miu stampede on your Instagram feed in six months time.
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 08: A model walks the runway during the Miu Miu Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on March 8, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
