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If the rumours are to be believed, and this was Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent collection, he certainly understood the assignment. After weeks of speculation that the designer may depart the House following a decade at its helm, the Spring/Summer 2027 show served as a spectacular farewell, deeply steeped in the Saint Laurent archive.
Under the Eiffel Tower, three enormous gold chandeliers illuminated a glossy black runway, with the tower itself sparkling in the background. Charlotte Gainsbourg performed as guests including Kate Moss, Rosé and Zoë Kravitz watched on. Then came the clothes, unfolding almost entirely in gold before gradually darkening into black.
Gold has long held a pivotal place in the Saint Laurent lexicon, and this season, Vaccarello took this signature to new heights. While sahariennes, trenches, blouses and wrap skirts recalled Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic wardrobe, strong-shouldered coats, voluminous blousons and sharply cut suits spoke to the codes Vaccarello has established during his tenure. Ensuring the colour never appeared quite the same across looks, he drew on a range of textures, including lamé, organza, guipure lace, mousseline, brocade and gold-leafed latex, as well as slight variations of the hue. Pops of rich gem tones punctuated looks through cascading scarves and soft, billowing layers.
Throughout the collection, there was a deliberate sense of excess, from monumental jewelled earrings to gilded chain shoes with twisting snake heels. And then, at the end, a swift switch-up, as if the lights were turning off at closing time. Luxe velvet tailoring and three cloud-like black evening dresses seemed to absorb the gold’s glow, bringing the collection full circle.
With plenty of star power watching, longtime Saint Laurent muse and supermodel veteran Anja Rubik walked the show, congratulating Vaccarello in a post marking her runway return.
The move nodded to Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall 1991 Rive Gauche collection, which ended in gold rather than black. The reversal made for an especially resonant conclusion given the speculation surrounding Vaccarello’s future. Whether intended as a farewell or simply a celebration of the last ten years, the collection was still a decadent ode to both the Maison’s history and the designer’s glittering chapter.
