Jonathan Anderson adapted to the restrictions enforced by the global lockdown quicker than most. For his last two collections at Loewe, he has crafted thoughtful and unique twists on the traditional runway format—last season it was a DIY art and craft book, for fall-winter ’21 it was an interactive literary event. Invitees were sent newspapers with the headline ‘The Loewe Show Has Been Cancelled’ (not strictly fake news), with a kit of tools including a letter opener, an embossed Loewe print, and an original story crafted by celebrated author Danielle Steel.
“I’ve always admired her as this kind of prolific writer who really encourages people globally to read, which is something that is so important,” explained Anderson—who presented the show in the form of a virtual run-through, talking audiences through every aspect of the new collection. “Clothing is an amazing thing to work with right now, especially when things are so restricted,” he continued. “Because you can have this idea of a fantasy that can become a reality.”
Anderson’s goal was to offer a refined take on ’70s-style psychedelia, crafting beautifully draped dresses and perfectly-tailored suits with bold graphic prints. Oversized statement buckles—some in leather, some embroidered with delicate beading—featured throughout, affixed to the shoulder of garments or on round-toed leather boots. Coats were voluminous and quilted (“There’s nothing more seductive than a coat worn as a dress” Anderson quipped), and paired with chunky platform moccassins.
On the accessories front, Anderson used the collection to unveil three new handbag shapes. The first was an update on the best-selling ‘Flamenco’ style, blown up in an oversized silhouette. The second was the re-release of the ‘Amazona’, an iconic house shape dating back to the ’70s, modernised with subtle embroidered logos. But the biggest talking point was the release of a brand new style—the ‘Goya’, a classic square shape with a shoulder strap and a discrete gold logo. In short? Another hit collection, from one of the industry’s most consistent hitmakers.