“Minimalist” is not a term often associated with Fendi, but as the opening look for Kim Jones‘ Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture show emerged onto the chrome runway, the immediate mood was one of impeccable refinement. Of course, by look three, a more familiar sense of glamour showed itself in the form of a paillette-adorned skirt rippling under a tailored jacket.

Presenting in Paris on the last day of Haute Couture Week, the collection harkened back to Karl Lagerfeld’s futuristic vision during his tenure at the Italian fashion house. As Jones explained, his was an unconventionally forward approach that was rooted in humanism and anchored by a deep reverence for form and function.

Notably, we were introduced to the ‘Scatola’ silhouette this season. Translating to ‘box’, shift-style gowns ban and concluded the show, a departure from the brand’s signatures of body-hugging silhouettes and sensual drapery.

Though some looks featured luxuriously large coats and sleek, structured leathers, this collection had a serenity that carried through from tailored separates to ornate gowns. Silk gazar that seemingly hovered over the skin, masculine tailoring rendered in feminine fabrications like sequins, beading and satin and even dresses packed with embroidery and jewels possessed a sense of lightness. Where last season leaned into luxe jewel tones, SS24 embraced a more neutral palette, with intrigue all centring on these textural contrasts at play.

On the accessories front, Jones simply outdid himself. Featuring bespoke Baguette silhouettes with fur trimmings, evening bags glistening with sequins and beadwork, and fringed micro bags that move fluidly with the wearer. Pointed croc pumps in silver were prolific, but our eyes were stuck on their fringed counterparts. Fendi also debuted some retrofuturistic eyewear designed by jeweller Delfina Delettrez. Featuring diamonds, inverted wiring, and floating lenses, they expanded on Jones’ vision, tapping into the projections of future fashions once dreamt up.

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