Fans of the Ukranian label Bevza will likely be surprised to learn that the brand started in 2006. In the last 18 months Svetlana Bevza’s slinky, silky creations have felt ubiquitous, beloved by a growing rotation of It-girls that spans New York indie darling Coco Baudelle, street style superstar Erika Boldrin, and Katy Perry. It does seem as if Bevza has suddenly hit its stride—their recent collections have encapsulated a modernised take on the ‘minimalism’ trend that feels refreshingly relevant in 2021, when most designers are embracing the gauche-chic aesthetic of the early 00s.
For spring summer ‘22, a collection the brand showed at New York’s Spring Studios overnight, the evolution continued. The usual suspects à la liquid silk slip dresses, flattering slouchy trousers, and cute shrunken sweaters were all on display, but there were updates too. A nautical theme was present throughout—mermaid-esque bralettes, deconstructed dresses that resembled fishing nets, silk shirts fastened with sailors-style knots. It was a motif that extended to the colour palette. Usually a stickler for the minimalist’s mecca of ivory, cream, and black, Svetlana introduced pretty shades of aqua, turquoise, and tourmaline, as well as sorbet strawberry and grabby marigold.
The nautical references made a subtle comment about the state of our oceans, which should come as no surprise to established fans of Bevza—the brand has long been committed to sustainable fashion practices. Speaking to Grazia last year, Bevza discussed the process of fabric accumulation that informs her collections. “Usually we source for new fabrics across the globe, but [recently] we’ve concentrated on sourcing fabrics produced in Ukraine. Our ‘fur’ is made of hemp, grown and produced in Ukraine, and all our handmade pieces are made of wastes from fabrics of previous seasons.” This extends to her design ethos—rather than reinventing the wheel every single season, Bevza prefers to offer a consistent aesthetic. “We’re copying ourselves,” she said after the SS ‘22 show. As they say, if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.