Marina Afonina of Albus Lumen ushered in this year’s Australian Fashion Week presented by Pandora with a transformative display at Carriageworks, marking a departure from its serene, meditative collections of the past. A post-industrialist set and thumping backing music (including a banging track that features in the best dance-off scene in cinematic history), the new collection has left the serenity of Eden to seek out a grittier garden.

If anyone was suffering a touch of post-weekend fatigue, the adrenalin Afonina offered is the kickstart to the week they needed. 

“We are putting a different spin on things this year; it’s about embracing the rebellion in a good way,” Afonina explained. Her collection, aptly titled ‘Rebellious’, featured a palette that ranged from dusty pinks, baby blues to earthier khakis and browns, highlighting the brand’s evolution from its neutral whites of last year into a more diverse and experimental arena.

“The collection is also built from pieces from our archives,” Afonina shared, emphasising the brand’s commitment to sustainability. “We’re repurposing, upcycling, and bringing uniqueness back into fashion with every piece being special. It’s about making less, but better quality.”

Credit to Afonina, only the sharpest of eyes would have recognised the original pieces in the deconstructed looks that paraded through the hall. For all rawness that permeated in asymmetrical cuts and distressed surfaces, there was still the signature softness and delicateness. Beaded skirts and flouncing gowns and the familiar Albus Lumen tailored pieces made ensured the collection steered clear of straying too far into Furiosa territory and kept one foot planted in fantasy.

Speaking of feet, footwear was particularly fun: a hybrid of ballet slipper and protective slip covering you see in hospitals (or on set during photoshoots.)

Picking up from last year’s debut of menswear, the boundary between genders at Albus Lumen continues to be permeable. Instead, says Afonina, she wants the clothes to reflect individual expression and diversity through its designs. Something that she thinks will continue to develop as the brand grows. “I personally love menswear and more inspired by menswear and this collection. A lot of attention was paid to menswear last season, but this year there is more of a unisex vibe.”

Make-up, led by Isabella Schimid and supplied by French brand Sisley, featured a ’90s grunge vibe with modern metallic eyes. This look was underpinned by Sisley’s star product, Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge Fresh Gel Cream, ensuring models sported glowing, youthful skin. The seamless integration of skincare and vibrant eye make-up created an iridescent effect, heralding a rebirth of energy and power on the runway.

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