SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – MAY 18: Models walk the runway during the Albus Lumen show during Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2023 at Carriageworks on May 18, 2023 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Mackenzie Sweetnam/Getty Images for AAFW)

For her first physical show in five years, creative director and founder Marina Afonina ushered in a new era for Albus Lumen.

In an expansive gallery, packed with 500 or so viewers, Afonina managed to create a pocket of serenity amidst the AAFW chaos. The sparse runway was aesthetically poignant, with curtains of sheer fabric hanging down over natural boulders that complimented the tones and fabrics of the clothing. Set to the sounds of A-ha’s ‘Summer Moved On’ and the white noise of birds and crashing waves, the show captured the quiet strength of Afonina’s greatest muse: the ocean. 

“The collection started with the idea of bringing back big energy, making noise and having a moment,” she tells GRAZIA. “It then evolved into colours, emotion, texture and feeling. I had a clear vision from the beginning of the collection, which has been my guide.”

What Afonina brings together in Phase II is a journey through the brand’s past, an update on where it stands, and a look at where it’s going. Plenty of signature details were present, including a stoic neural palette, crocheted pieces and relaxed tailoring, but this season clearly marked a new chapter for the Sydney-based label. 

“The Resort ’24 collection is really a level up—taking shapes and fabrications to a different level for the brand,” explains Afonina. “There are a few new elements to the collection that I really love—such as quilting, beading and new knitwear.”

Made in partnership with the Woolmark Company, knits were delicate with beachy motifs, while European influences like cropped blazers, quilting and bias cuts brought an Afonina-infused sense of glam. And speaking of glam, there was plenty of options for nightlife. Luxurious occasionwear was a standout in the form of fluid silks, layered chiffon, and even a few matrimonial gowns that saw Afonina dipping back into bridal, three years after a one-off capsule collection.

“Nostalgia, faith and future,” are the words Afonina used to describe the collection, and with ease, she achieved a covetable reflection of all. And as we darted to our trusty Toyota RAV4 GXL to head to the next show, a stillness from the collection lingered with us.

Albus Lumen Resort 2024

Albus Lumen Resort 2024

Albus Lumen Resort 2024

Albus Lumen Resort 2024

This year, the GRAZIA Australia team travelled between AAFW shows in the refined style of Toyota’s new RAV4 GXL. With its modern and spacious interior, privacy glass, and fast charging portals for our phones, it was the perfect mode of travel for zipping across Sydney town. To find out more, visit toyota.com.au