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There’s an idea of what resortwear should look like – clothes crafted for beachside bliss on some remote island – and then there’s resortwear according to St. Agni. Dark, sensual yet functional while remaining this side of austere, their Resort ’24 collection shown at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week was resortwear if your avant-garde art teacher went to Berghain.
To tease out this connection to, there is a concept in the art world known as the white cube theory. Introduced in the early 20th Century and the rise of abstract art, the white walls and sanctity of the space was a way to diminish distraction and focus on the art. And so it was with St. Agni. Foregoing the traditional runway for a square space, the runway was set against an inner lit white box that became a backdrop for clothing that was equally conceptually driven.
“The major visual references for the Resort ‘24 collection revolved around the concept of juxtaposing refined resort tailoring with a masculine edge and a sensual element,” explains St. Agni founder Laura Fells.
“We drew inspiration from the 1990s minimalistic aesthetic, which served as a grounding element for the overall design direction. The combination of these elements created a unique and contemporary visual language for the collection. It captures the essence of sophisticated resortwear with a touch of sensuality and a nod to the minimalist styles of the past.”
Minimalist it may be but it was rich in details and tailoring became a canvas on which Fells began to paint her vision. The demarcation between menswear and womenswear was frayed, like the edges of Fell’s sleeveless shirts. Jackets were given abstract treatment, some crafted in reverse (another key 90s moment a la Celine Dion’s white suit from 99) while metal breastplates created by New York jewellery brand AGMES added an industrial edge to the supple fabrications. Leather was heavy on the ground but treated so delicately it practically floated along the runway.
“We aimed to create a collection that appeals to a wide range of individuals. Ultimately, we have designed the collection based on pieces that we would personally love to wear, pieces that are considered ideal wardrobe staples,” says Fells.
“We envision our target audience to be confident and appreciative of a blend of progressive and classic elements in their style. We strive to offer versatile and timeless pieces that speaks to a diverse group of people, transcending any specific demographic or stereotype. Our goal is to provide fashion options that empower and inspire anyone who connects with our brand.”
It wasn’t all suits made for lounging. Sheer mesh dresses, loose-fit shirting and beanies provided the right amount of relaxed nuance for resort traditionalists.
This year, the GRAZIA Australia team travelled between AAFW shows in the refined style of Toyota’s new RAV4 GXL. With its modern and spacious interior, privacy glass, and fast charging portals for our phones, it was the perfect mode of travel for zipping across Sydney town. To find out more, visit toyota.com.au.
