The sun was in full force when day one of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024 kicked off this afternoon. With even the harbourside breeze not enough to combat the heat, it’s lucky that OpéraSPORT’s founders, Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, know a thing or two about what makes clothes cool.
Arguably one of the first brands to stake a claim to the mix-and-match aesthetic that has exploded in recent years, OpéraSPORT was born from a desire to merge the elevated glamour of Paris with the sporty street style of Copenhagen, thus giving way to a unique savoir-faire of its own creation. In this world, athleisure is sensual, while party looks feel chicly undone, and a look comprising of lycra, cotton, ruffles and quilting can appear paired-back.
Having shown for the first time just last year, the opening slot on the schedule marks a significant milestone for the brand—which was founded just five years ago. But while some creatives might feel obligated to throw us for a loop, Gundelach and Stelter‘s Spring Summer 2025 collection was a seamless expansion of its rapidly established codes, striking that satisfying accord between whimsy and everyday functionalism. Taking inspiration from the enchanting Exillion Garden, a hidden gem north of Copenhagen, this season’s offering balanced classic architectural references with notes of opulence. With each look making its way down the winding runway of Operaparken, it’s clear that this design duo know themselves well.
Embracing a more curated palette than last season, colours were saturated for maximum impact. High-octane coral pinks and Duberry blue were kept apart but styled to lift black and white pieces. Abstract details, traditionally polarising silhouettes, and bold styling all made for a very convincing case to experiment. Even style moments of potential controversy—capri pants, extremely low rises and hip belts, to name a few—bestowed a sense of modern wearability rarely captured so effortlessly—you could practically see audience members changing their minds in real-time. And as far as the diehard fans go, new colourways of the signature Shirley bag are sure to be snapped up ASAP.
