The wardrobe of the modern discerning woman has been at the crux of many designers’ methodologies since French couturiers beckoned in an era of liberation almost a century ago. But in the 2020s, how does one slice away from the noise to invoke a collection that encapsulates the desires of contemporary wares?

For REMAIN, the quiet and mature (albeit more austere) subsidiary of Copenhagen’s oldest fashion house Birger Christensen, this sentiment has remained at the core of its ethos. Under the helm of newly appointed creative director Martin Asbjørn, the Fall/Winter 2024 season for the label codified its mission statement into 29 looks of renewed utility.

Much chatter has permeated the zeitgeist about the singular aesthetic of the Copenhagen style set—the whimsical effervescence that calls to mind when you think of Danish design. Yet, here on the runway at the barren gallery space of Den Frie, REMAIN resumes its focus on clean lines, structured silhouettes, intriguing textural contrasts and refined simplicity. A new take on Scandinavian minimalism, if you will.

“For this collection I wanted to bring together elements of classic and timeless dressing but seen through the lens of today’s empowered woman and by doing so, giving it a contemporary and relevant twist,” Asbjørn revealed post-show. Subvert he did, eschewing pieces traditionally relegated to the menswear wardrobe of yore.

Tailoring oscillated between the shape of dresses once seen in royal courts—a peacoat rendered into a dress with bubble hem—and sharp pinstripe skirt sets with precise pleating—apt for the mob wife on the move. Separates formed a large portion of the collection, delivered in body-conscious blazers with microscopic lapse and pointy collars, fur zip-up bombers and leather shirting.

Showstopping looks took the form of a silk gauze skirt heavily embroidered in marcasite beads, sheer mesh shirts matching boots and kitten-heeled sling-backs designed in collaboration with Anny Nord. (The latter is now available to shop online).

Despite this being Asbjørn’s first complete collection as Creative Director, the range permeated with a sense of familiarity. A continuity of tailoring that expands on the workwear redux presented during the Spring/Summer 2024 season by previous design lead, Denise Christensen. This sense of resilience and uniformity sets REMAIN apart from the subtleties of its contemporaries—including the statement partywear concocted by its sister label, ROTATE.

It’s not a changing of the guards, so to speak, but a reinvigoration. A potent silent metamorphosis that reflects the new seat on Denmark’s throne. Fittingly, the pieces also prove a perfect injection into the sovereign wardrobe of Australia’s own Queen Mary. (Though she no longer dresses in the Y2K styles of yore, this collection could coax her back.) Long may this epoch REMAIN.