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MILAN – For their Fall Winter 2022 collection, Zegna continues to blur the distinctions between leisure and tailoring.
An idea that has found fruition in the brand’s recent revamping of logo and identity recalling the winding road that leads up into the mountains where the Zegna mill has operated for over 100 years and the same road that has become a central motif to the new worldview presented by the Italian brand.
Artistic director Alessandro Sartori has been slowly but surely manipulating the silhouettes of traditional menswear and sartorial needs of modern day into a cohesive whole.
No longer is there any need to distinguish the comfort of one from the structure of the other.
Rather, Sartori sees the modern wardrobe as being one that performs to the letter the function of clothing: an aesthetic interaction with our environment.
Formal, casual – these are now longer relevant terms in the world of Zegna. As long as it serves the purpose of its creation in an elegant way, then a zippered turtleneck can carry the same brevity as a waistcoat.
A field jacket with oversized pocketing can be worn in lieu of a blazer with tailored trousers.
Minor adjustments to familiar garments bring additional breaks from the past. Knit sweaters are finished with built-in bolo ties.
Finishing the looks were galvanised slip-on boots, delivering an interesting juxtaposition to the weight of the clothing. A rugged addition that could become the new all-in-one boot of choice suitable for any landscape.
Which brings us to the setting – Sartori wasn’t just sending a message via the clothes, either. To present the new season, models traversed the grounds of three different settings: the controlled environment of the studio shoot; the hills of Oasi Zegna in northern Italy near the family home and mills; and on the snow, a repeated motif from their recent capsule collection.
This shift in location highlights the way Sartori’s vision for menswear is one that is responsive to the environment rather than the need to continually modify.
Ultra-thin padded fabrics, slashed pockets that reveal tonal layers and panels of leather cut into cashmere – there isn’t an environment that these don’t belong to.
If this is the world through the eyes of Zegna, it’s definitely a sight for sore eyes.
