NEW YORK CITY: If Tory Burch’s Spring Summer 2020 collection tipped its headbands to the late Princess Diana, then her Fall 2020 show was an ode to the swashbuckling knee-high boot.
Dotted in miniature florals, the carrot-coloured, slouchy chic wedge stomped past Burch’s loyal front row suspects; Anna Wintour, Lucy Liu and a coffee-sipping Julianne Moore. Colourful porcelain art works by sculptor and painter Francesca DiMattio were positioned throughout the four galleries on the third floor of Sotheby’s on New York’s Upper East Side on Sunday as models walked throughout each. DiMattio – a long-time friend of Burch’s – had actually designed floral prints for this collection, and the opening look saw exactly that; a museum-worthy cotton jacquard suit – with a power puff sleeve and Victorian collar – paired with the Lee Radziwill saddle bag and those boots.
As American singer Alice Smith belted out a stirring rendition of Lesley Gore’s 1963 feminist anthem “You Don’t Own Me”, voluminous colour floated – almost romantically so – throughout the galleries.
Lollypop pink and mint green knits sat atop organza bow blouses as did the white shearling coat – a staple we’ve seen reimagined at Rag & Bone and Coach this Fall season. The smock dress was also a favourite. One of Di-Mattio’s clever floral prints was combined with a frilly white bib, white collar and capped sleeves. Similarly as striking were the long, broad angular collars, something Julie Andrews could come alive in on hilltops should the famous film be shot today.
Pleated skirts were as plentiful as variations of the jacquard blazer but perhaps the standout was a deep sky blue and black floral-printed, silk crepe de chine dress. It’s soft puff sleeve was played off against the diagonal placement of some seriously dramatic black fringing.
Commissioning DiMattio was a real step forward for the Tory Burch brand. Much like Moore, I’ve always been a loyal fan, but this collection felt bolder, brighter, more exaggerated…and more elevated. A good pair of boots will do that.