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Last season, Simone Rocha wove her experience of new motherhood through her garments, focusing on embellished breasts, pieces that button up the front for nursing and creating silhouettes and materials inspired by children’s dresses. For autumn/winter 2022, Rocha, this time, turned towards her own childhood, reliving the well-known Irish fable Children of Lir, the dark tale of four children of an Irish king who were turned into swans for 900 years at the jealous hands of their magical stepmother.
Fittingly, guests, including FKA Twigs, Bukky Bakray and Francesca Hayward, arrived at a medieval hall in London’s Inns of Court to find a dark, dimly-lit room full of spooky shadows with a spherical runway designed to echo the shape of the lake where the Lir children lived as white birds. “Two sons and two daughters, A dark lament,” the show notes read, before the next line “Crushed Taffeta wings” gave a hint at the literal ways the fable made its way into the clothes: white cotton ruffles created to embody wings burst out of outerwear, while see-through slip dresses were adorned with swan motifs and ribbons with bird-like feathers.
Tulle and volume, which are signature to Rocha’s brand, were paired with more unexpected pieces, such as the blue velvet dresses dotted throughout, one of which had an on-trend mesh cut-out at the stomach. The black velvet mini dress, too, was a standout look Rocha customers will be coveting come September.
Bows and heart motifs were also seen throughout with the latter featuring across the chest on a black tulle design layered over gingham. Hearts were also seen on the back of white dresses, showing model’s bare skin and in the finale look: a red cut-out vinyl jacket layered over a white tulle lace gown with bird feathers at the hem.
Model of the moment Paloma Esser also held a white heart-shaped handbag, sure to be next season’s most coveted accessory.
Speaking of accessories, Rocha debuted jewelled balaclavas too, paired with matching knit combos and models wore Rocha’s beaded socks and signature ballet shoes. Others donned new pointed versions of her platforms—bejewelled, of course.
A beautiful collection with dark undertones and a (literal) story to tell. Simone Rocha continues to prove why she’s always the most anticipated show on London’s schedule.
