The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City is the home to one of Elsa Schiaparelli’s earliest and most ornate designs: a Surrealist 1938 Rhodoid clear plastic necklace adorned with multicoloured insects. It was worn by Millicent Rodgers – a socialite, art collector and fashion icon who had a penchant for Schiaparreli’s bold, but beautiful pieces.
Last night, Schiaparelli’s opening show at Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris harped back to these outré foundations. But for Daniel Roseberry, it was reimagined as embellished eyes, ears and arms; gilt brooches from face to fingers; a faux skeleton fashioned entirely from precious gems and intricate beadwork. It was the handiwork of makeup artist Erin Parsons and team, and clearly not a single detail (or diamond) was spared.
Because of the incredibly elaborate adornments, the actual makeup was pure and fresh. Skin that’s barely been touched by foundation, eyes defined subtly with soft beige and lips pressed with a touch of clear balm was the look du jour.
Hair was also simple and clean. The work of Eugene Souleiman, texture wasn’t worked against but rather embraced, be it long and straight or short and coiled. Against such a breath-taking collection and wondrous embellishments, it was pared-back perfection: Schiaparelli at its very (haute couture) best.