In a trendy corner of West London last week, Kim Jones unveiled Dior Fall 2022 to a celebrity-fuelled audience (the first fashion show he’s held in his home since 2003). The collection paid homage to the Beat Generation – a postwar counterculture literary movement – that rose to prominence in United States during the 1950s. The collection resulted in patterned knitwear, colour clashing and traditional tailoring. Following the unveiling, Dior released a behind-the scenes look on the key savoir faire designs.
While the 120-foot long runway itself was covered with the transcript of Jack Kerouac’s famous 1957 novel, On The Road, Jones continued referencing the author in clothing. One of the key savoir faire pieces for Fall 22 was a leather jacket emblazoned with the original cover art of the author’s novel Visions of Cody. The jacket was hand-painted but according to the atelier, is only noticed very close up where subtle brushstrokes are seen. True to Kerouac’s own personal style, the jacket was crafted in a relaxed zip-through blouson style.
Another hero design from Fall 22 channelled the movement’s rethinking of established ideas. Jones took styles cues from the beloved American flannel shirts of the Beat Generation and chose to reinvent traditional tailoring – a hallmark aspect for the French fashion house. To emulate the detailed checks in contrasting hues of orange, yellow and navy, Dior turned to knitted fabric for a series of blazers.
According to the House, the tailors used a knitter in Italy to create fabrication that would adapt to the shape of a tailored jacket. The blazer is crafted as it normally would – the canvas, handwork, stitching and shoulder pads.
The collection was complimented by makeup from Jones’ long-time collaborator, Peter Philips. The creative and image director created a natural beauty look that emphasised a perfectly balanced and even complexion that was neither too matte or too dewy so the clothing could stand out.