As Maria Grazia Chiuri started an all-new feminist slogan – “Why have there been no great women artists?” – Dior Beauty’s Peter Philips was reimagining the ’60s spider lash. It seems, after a long-standing affair with the subtle, albeit non-existent lash – the chunky, pronounced giraffe-like lash of the liberated ’60s is back.
For Dior’s girls, it was “all about the eyes”, with copious lashings of “just mascara”, namely Dior’s most recent incarnation, Diorshow Pump ‘n’ Volume.
Inspired by French-American artist and feminist Niki de Saint Phalle, classic ’60s tropes were conceived by Philips, namely the Twiggy-esque lash that defined the decade: long, wiry and overtly clumpy. A cadre of counterculture beatniks, fitted in slanting fishnet chapeaus, boasted bold, babydoll lashes. With theatrics, eyes were the “obsession”, whilst skin was kept minimal and fresh.
“Today’s makeup look at Dior’s SS18 show was all about the lashes. Sixties-inspired spider lashes. First I applied Diorshow Lash Maximizer, followed by a few coats of Diorshow Pump and Volume Mascara. A natural looking skin with our new Forever Undercover foundation and a hint of Lipglow!” Philips said backstage.
Symmetry and perfection were lost in favour of spontaneity and a childlike innocence, much like ‘playing dress-ups’, but in the beauty cupboard. “I wanted to accentuate the eyes, in a very spontaneous way, giving the impression of a young girl who had applied her own makeup.” Fanning the lashes out is keynote here, as is an almost rough application. “If you do it too clean and perfect you won’t get the fat effect,” he told his his makeup assistants. “Make a mess, then clean it up!” The focus on eyes was furthered with a strong lining of Diorshow Khôl in Black around the waterline – which, interestingly, has been a recurrent theme across all fashion weeks.
A little Charlotte’s Web for your lashes, j’adore Dior.
HOW TO BABYDOLL LASH
1. COAT LASHES WITH Diorshow Maximizer 3D Triple Primer
2. SQUEEZE THE BOTTOM END of Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume Mascara
3. ROUGHLY COAT THE LASH THREE TIMES with Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Volume mascara, waiting 20 seconds for lashes to dry in between coats, and fanning out haphazardly
4. WITH A HEAVY HAND, line the waterline with Diorshow Khôl in Black
5. USING FINGERS, apply DiorSkin Forever Undercover Foundation (similar here) across face and dust DiorSkin Nude Air Luminizer
6. PREPARE LIPS with Dior Lip Sugar Scrub and slick DiorAddict Lip Glow to heighten natural lip colour