For Bianca Spender, opening the 2022 Afterpay Australian Fashion Week must be something of an auspicious privilege. It wasn’t long ago that many of us watched her mother, the late Carla Zampatti, present her spring 2020 collection on the exact same runway. So, for Spender to deliver her Resort 2023 collection this morning in the same space, it’s not surprising there was a hint of Australian fashion history in the air.

Although Spender has successfully run her eponymous label for over a decade, this past year has cast her name even further into the spotlight. Today’s show offered us a vision of her next step, taking the Bianca Spender label into a more experimental, sculptural world. Her preference for lilting bias-cut silks in soft tones still ranged throughout but this time with the added edge of new-era silhouettes. Knots, twists and ruches (as well as springy, drop-waist tubing) proved that Spender is revelling in an optimistic, fresh future.

“I was thinking a lot about the idea of disruptive beauty, and what it looked like to push the boundaries of traditional beauty ideals. I wanted this collection to represent the liberation of women and use optimism, courage and bravery to do so.” Spender explained to GRAZIA. “The past two years have been turbulent for society and that has had an impact on this collection and me as a designer. While I was working on the collection, I watched a soul music documentary which spoke about optimism through the pain, and that is what I wanted to convey – sheer joy and total freedom!”

Fluidity through movement was a key theme, figuratively and literally, both via the collection’s silky fabrics and via a troupe of models/dancers who performed an installation of modern dance. The idea of movement was refreshing and appropriate for Spender. Her pieces have long offered an ethereal femininity, suiting after-five soirees and have always been a favourite for wedding season. This collection distilled more for the daily wearable menu, however. Long line vests, zip-up sporty jackets and slouchy shirting were served alongside her fare of richly-coloured slip dresses and diaphanous two-pieces. It’s likely the most coveted look will be her expert suiting, particularly the black, oversized silk set that is so beautifully curated and constructed you can’t help but be reminded that refined tailoring runs deep in her veins.

The show itself was fresh and vibrant, a lovely opposition to the dreary weather that Sydney’s never ending La Niña delivered us this morning. The long, oversized runway was imposing but Spender filled the event with a warmth I have come to expect from her. It was also wonderful to see fashion week off to a diverse start, with the casting of models of varying shapes, sizes, backgrounds and ages, and, importantly, clothing suitably fit for each of them. It’s a welcome change we hope continues throughout the week.

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