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Michael Kors has a formula. For Spring, an outdoor procession situated at a New York landmark. For Fall, an interior view in a sleek, industrial room of one’s own. (Save the designer’s celebratory 40th anniversary Fall/Winter 2021 collection which saw muses old and new saunter down a lit up strip of 45th Street.) As conventions are formed over time, this idea of tradition was at the core of his new season—a collection he’s titled “Timeless”.
Kors has been a fundamental thread in New York’s cultural fabric since the brand’s inception in 1981, and as the 64-year-old proudly boasted about at the show’s end, he happens to like the city he’s developed his brand in. But more importantly, dressing the woman that inhabits it. (Bobby Short’s song of the same name cemented this notion as it played over the runway’s close.)
In a mirrored room, models descended a set of winding stairs to unveil the collection over a tiered reflective space. Like many collections presented this season, Kors ideated modest staples for the uptown woman. Sort of riffing on the abundance of 80s power dressing and the discerning quality of 90s minimalism, Kors presented a form of capsule wardrobe that harnessed the sights and hues of everyday streetwear; tobacco Prince of Wales check, grey houndstooth, caramel leather, charcoal wool and a hint of shearling. (The latter is especially necessary for the frigid negative temperatures and snowy blizzards that plague the city in wintertime, such as the one swirling around as we speak.)
Styling choices helped the collection resonate with a particular type of Lower East Side nonchalance. Knitted turtleneck dresses were layered under feathered coats and hoodie dresses were adorned with sparkles to elevate even the basic utility. Puffer jackets paired with lace dresses to provide an unexpected contrast synonymous with the evolving city. It’s unlikely Kors has spent any time on the ‘office siren’ side of TikTok, but if he has he’ll know how resonate these quintessential silhouettes would be. Double-breasted blazers featured sumptuous tucks at the waist to evoke a sculptured figure even in the depths of winter.
Cosy knitwear straddled the body with breezy refinement, especially when partnered with asymmetrical denim skirts. In some cases, sweaters featured exaggerated sleeves that were haphazardly sliced to expose the hands in sharp squares. Lace—the textile du jour—featured prominently throughout. (A motif Kors began last season.) Slip dresses were enhanced by lace trim, while a larger floral print was fashioned into body-conscious midi dresses with a high-sheen laminate to expand on the fabric’s capabilities. Eveningwear oscillated from night luxe skin-sculpting dresses—something Blake Lively might wear on her next red carpet, or wishes she had during one of her many outings with Taylor Swift in her“Midnights” era—to feminine tailoring à la Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.
As Kors enters his fourth decade in business, his collections continue to highlight why he’s not only defining American modern glamour, but synonymous with it. Yes, these pieces might be timeless. But don’t be surprised when the next crop of fashion juggernauts reference these silhouettes in upcoming decades. As everything old is new again, Kors is proving that you’re never too hardened to showcase new tricks.
