Cha-Ching! That was the sound of Moschino winning the slots in Milan, as Jeremy Scott delivered a decadent collection with that classic kind of dissolution and corruption built in. Moschino – a brand that dances not so delicately between camp and vamp – again proved minimalism is not welcome here, as Scott’s love affair with colour, print and bad taste reigned supreme. Bad taste, as it were, has been integral to Scott’s Moschino. He has turned luxury perfume into spray and wipe bottles, fashioned expensive handbags into teddybears and given the most famous Golden Arches a distinctly Moschino flavour.
A strong cultural regard for pop and celebrity, Scott’s intentions are always clear; he wears not only his heart but all facets of his rampant, energetic, fretting imagination on his sleeve. The culmination of which is a colourful, kitschy visual symphony of pop culture through the decades. This year, he looked to gameshow culture and nuclear Americanism, naming iconic gameshow The Price Is Right as inspiration. The symbolism was overt, to the point of a million-dollar-bill clad Kaia Gerber, prize-winning Irina Shayk and TV-dinner gown replete with mushy peas and meatloaf.
It was a wild mash-up of glamorous quiz show model meets crass Vegas showgirl, but poker faces these were not, rather, expressive, exuberant faces full of wild colour. Makeup was gloriously vulgar, as Tom Pecheux served up slithering, sexy versions of the cat-eye in brilliant cerulean, lime green and burnt cognac. It was bad makeup done brilliantly, much like Scott’s entire Moschino universe.
Hair recalled Valentino’s 2018 Haute Couture, Versace’s Pre-Fall and that Bella Hadid Dsquared campaign, with palpable volume and a lot of bounce. Natural texture was disregarded and padded out with hair pieces and wigs by Guido Palau and pulled high to the sky. It was like Dolly Parton had hit the slots all night long; backcombed and slightly salacious.
A brand of glamour that may be sleazy, it acts as the ultimate antidote to the quotidian doom and gloom. Moschino’s hair and makeup makes it OK to be unapologetically reckless when it comes to beauty, and of course, have fun doing so.