It seems Alberta Ferretti, Queen of Gowns, is in her alter ego era. The designer, whose career spans more than 40 years has been a sure thing for red carpets and the manifestation of the perfect ethereal showstopper. Her floating layers of chiffon in grades of diaphanous colours have preceded her, making a princess of every subject.

So, to see the now 73-year-old gravitating to what she describes as a more “masculine” aesthetic,  princesses may be rebelling to their dark side. For Fall/Winter 2024, Ferretti continued her noted interest in a more casual couture, but this time not just by way of construction but by letting the palette follow. A gradient of grey, black, khaki, olive, mustard and molten gold flowed from textural boucle suiting to exaggerated woollen poncho to sequinned dresses in a cacophony of decade-inspired ensembles.

Lacey bias-cut slip dresses, pleated minis and leather-fabricated negligees played on the seductive nature of pre-Millenia grunge – many paired with patent black knee-boots that truly could be the wearable boot of the coming season. Art Deco appeared via rows of gold metal appliqué on black waistcoats and armour-like gowns while nods to the Ferretti of red-carpets-past came by way of twisted chiffon dresses and a particularly regal black number seen on model Irina Shayk.

Ferretti clearly wants us to explore her new, textural, casual era, however. Especially enticing was the dynamic suiting and outerwear. An 80s-style leather jacket, belted at the waist in a deep olive green was cool, anti-styled over a gold disc-embellished evening dress. Additionally 70’s suiting in similar muted hues impressed and, when paired with a silky satin shirt, welcomed a kind of vibey office nostalgia not seen since the pandemic.

On her Instagram, the pieces are described as “heritage meets modernity” – a dip into the archives for a new look at the future. Given Ms. Ferretti’s first collection was in 1980, she has certainly experienced many of the trends now being homaged by just about every current designer. To have seen and worked through eras first-hand gives her an authenticity of perspective not entirely possible when working from research alone.

This collection produced not only Ferretti’s expert ethereal modernism but stoic key investment pieces, too. Pieces that will suit not only the coming season, but all the fashion eras of the future.

Caution To The Wind: CHANEL Takes Marseille For Its CRUISE 2024/2025 Show

Exclusive: Felix Mallard Shares His Photo Diary From Tokyo

The Hot List: The Mother’s Day 2024 Edition

Anya Taylor-Joy Shifts Red Carpet Style Into Overdrive On The Press Tour For ‘Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga”

The Non-Negotiables In My Beauty Case When I Travel

Driving Conscious Indulgence: How Upscale Hotels In Singapore Are Blending Luxury With Sustainability