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Hot air is smothering Paris this week. But to give rise to his vision, Nicolas Ghesquière decides to take us away for Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024. Calling on the spirit of travel that has underpinned the maison’s heritage, Ghesquière partnered with production designer James Chinlund once again to reimagine the Champs-Elysee in Paris. This time, for a show scored by French artist Zaho de Sagazan, the collaboration resulted in a giant hot-air balloon right in the middle of one of the world’s most revered streets. On the inside, walls were draped by Penique Productions, imparting a vivid orange light that cocooned guests in a summer sunset.
This theme of air determining shape seemed to be woven throughout the collection, with inflated bubble hems on jackets, parachute sleeves on jackets and blouses, loosely draped skirts that move gracefully in the wind and splits in tailored outerwear falling like ribbon.
Slouchy leather bombers and asymmetrical skirts belted at the hip formed a defining silhouette of the season, one that challenges the traditional conventions of balance we’ve been working with in recent years. And with clashing prints layered over each other, the sense of crossing paths is imparted onto shirts, skirts and dresses. Most looks boasted a vintage feel with muted bright tones, ’80s-style maximalism, white tights and power shoulders. Pyjama-esque silk pants and tops felt like something you’d wear on the first-class cabin of the Maharajas’ Express, and elsewhere, Ghesquière’s penchant for structure still found a fitting place in the collection, with tailored houndstooth jackets, knife pleat skirts, corseted bodices that revealed gemstones, and slim-leg trousers. Sequined gowns made an appearance, but it was the reto suit jackets and tapered trousers that closed the show.
Continuing the theme of travel, leather camera bags in the LV monogram swung from the hands of a few models while others touted small, party-ready baguette bags. Further down, footwear took two notable shapes in pumps with twisted leather detailing—like a scrunched handkerchief—and subversive peep-toe pumps that only cover four toes.
The French-Belgian fashion designer, who has been the women’s creative director of the house for a decade this year, didn’t leave any notes behind for guests, but perhaps letting us think about it, unencumbered by the actual reference points, can drive all the imagination intended.
