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Connor Ives’ name was quite literally catapulted across international fashion pages in 2018 because of a swan. Yes, six years ago, British supermodel Adwoa Aboah shockingly shunned major fashion houses to wear one of Ives’ bespoke pieces of work to the Met Gala: twelve mirrored swans adorned the back of an ivory duchess satin duster coat—quite the spectacle as Aboah ascended the museum’s famous steps. “The piece was inspired by debutante balls, social swans being introduced to society,” says Ives. He was just 21.
Born and raised in Bedford, New York, Ives had moved to London in 2014 to attend acclaimed fashion college Central Saint Martins. His infatuation with both fashion and the females in his life because intertwined, as his pursuit for a new Americana was often expressed via the stories of the women. In turn, this would challenge female archetypes.
Ives’ Autumn/Winter show at London Fashion Week was perhaps his greatest dedication to his female friends. His swans.
“Since the beginning of my career, my work has been platformed, guided and influenced by my swans,” Ives says via the show notes. “This season’s cast is made up of the women, socialites, friends, and muses who have kept me in a state of awe. My take on the modern-day Swan.”
Perhaps most remarkably, Ives’ technique this season sees him up-cycle off-cuts, vintage textiles and objects lacking purpose: embroidery is made from safety pins which were collected from random eBay sales and the young designer’s London studio floor. Then there’s the headphone bride, wearing organza and lace made from the remnants of wires and offcuts of headphone produced in Kolkata. Many of the jersey styles this season are made from deadstock military surplus. Yes, Just like Ives connection to his swans, his work and up-cycling are a conscious coupling.
“One of the demi-couture mini-gowns was made from an antique wall hanging which was over 300 years old,” explains Ives. “The dye on the hand-embroidery had leached over time into the surrounding textile. We intentionally left the textile as-is, rather than embarking on our rather extensive textile restoration processes we will often implement for the piano shawl styles; restoring a vintage textile to its former glory.”
See you at next years Met?
See every look from Connor Ives’ Autumn/Winter 2024 show below.
