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Putting on the Ritz. When in New York in September, you’re either a spectate or a spectator, depending on your sartorial sensibilities. Wiederhoeft’s Spring/Summer 2024 show—emphasis on show—was an ode to the former.
A fastidious homage to the inhabitants of Manhattan who embrace the bravado and peacocking inextricably linked to this dynamic metropolis. Proving that fashion is wearable art that intersects every facet of culture and creativity, Wiederhoeft staged a coup de théâtre in three acts.
The brand’s performance, and in turn its collection, was labelled ‘Night Terror At The Opera’, with the set up ‘Act One: Night Terror’, confrontation ‘Act Two: Dream’ and resolution ‘Act Three: Nightmare’ a choreographed explosion of chintzy glamour.
If your night terrors take the shape of bridal poodles, rewired Stepford wives and a firework of devilishly camp embroidery soundtracked to Berghain drum and bass, you’ll find a kindred spirit amongst Wiederhoeft’s theatre kid couture.
Casted in the role as the main character was none other than Julia Fox, who is not the titular terror, but rather an ethereal apparition of a jilted bride. With the theatre a naturally superstitious arena, Fox served as the phantom wife.
For the occasion, Fox wore unconventional nuptial attire in a corseted mini dress. The bustier featured Vivienne Westwood-esque boning, though softened and romanticised through the addition of an embroidered flower bouquet. The tulle thigh-grazing skirt was also adorned with bows, which when paired with Fox’s ‘Till Death Do Us Part’ mini purse highlighted Wiederhoft’s design thesis of ‘modern nostalgia’.
Contrasting the short hemline of the dress, Fox also wore a floor-length veil trimmed with gathered tulle. On her feet were the silhouette du jour, Marc Jacobs Kiki Boots. In one video captured of Fox, the author, podcaster and model could be seen vaping from underneath her veil.
If this is the nightmare Wiederhoeft is referencing, we never want to wake up.
