Simon Porte Jacquemus has always walked to the beat of his own drum and for many years strayed from sartorial tradition to unveil his cultish Instagramable ensembles away from the restraints of the fashion week calendar. It has been just three months since the designer unveiled his last collection Le Splash (only dampened by a surprise tropical downpour) and returned overnight for his next runway.
The location of a Jacquemus runway is as hotly anticipated as the release of the clothes, from stunning lavender fields to sprawling paddocks of wheat. This week Fall 2022 – titled Le Papier – was presented from the salt-rock mountains of Arles in the south of France. It was the apt ‘blank canvas’ the designer was striving for telling one reporter from the show, that he wanted “to restart from nothing, like a white page”.
From little things big things grow (or at least that’s the saying) and for Jacquemus the collection amounted into an impressive 61 looks. It was certainly a sartorial palette cleanser combining all-white looks with an approachable peppering of sage green, sky blue, browns and burnt orange. A far cry from the fluorescent pieces of the last collection. Shearling coats and puffer jacket met were met with linen tailoring and marbled knitwear. Inspired by the designer’s upcoming wedding to Marco Maestri, the brand also ushered in a selection of experimental bridal wear while sportswear fiends were treated to a taster of the upcoming Nike Humara x Jacquemus sneakers.
In short, the eponymous creative wanted to achieve “everyday couture” with Fall 2022 to offer seasonless staples with the same cult appeal. And just a little something for the modern bride.