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When you hear the word ‘Hermès’ many things come to mind: cult-status leather goods (the kind people get on years-long waiting lists for), refined Parisian elegance, sophisticated equestrian daywear. ‘Sexy’ isn’t necessarily top of the list. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski set about changing that perception for fall winter 2022, clearly bitten by the same bug that has taken over the rest of the fashion industry. But, of course, sex appeal by way of Hermès is an entirely different beast to the cut-out heavy, low-slung, midriff-baring creations we’ve become accustomed to seeing on the runways for the last two seasons. Instead, Vahnee-Cybulski showed discrete flashes of skin, while still retaining the foundations of the Hermès ready-to-wear aesthetic.
The opening look, for example, was a skirt suit made of contrasting striped leather. The hemline? Uncharacteristically tiny. Elsewhere, super-sheer blouses were elevated with delicate lace detailing (and tucked into pleated leather skirts), tiny woollen jumpsuits were styled with thigh-high boots and two-toned schoolgirl socks, and shrunken bomber jackets were thrown over translucent body suits. “I wanted to have a tight expression of what occurs today, beyond the equestrian,” the designer told press before the show. “It’s really about how do you translate classicism and sophistication and chic into the idea of a woman really assuming her femininity? The fact that sex is okay—it’s not something to be ashamed of.”
Of course, it wouldn’t be an Hermès show without an array of drool-inducing accessories. Leather belts with an architectural silver buckle belted mini shorts and tailored leather day coats. The footwear gave a nod to the brand’s equestrian roots: flat knee-high boots finished in durable brown suede. And a mini version of the cult Hermès Kelly bag, worn across the body with a practical adjustable strap—is sure to cause a stir once it becomes available in September. Hermès was one of the few fashion brands whose business soared in the pandemic. With so many people devoid of places to go, many funnelled their ‘fashion funds’ into classic handbags they’d keep and love forever. To keep up with demand, the brand announced plans to open new factories in France. “We are facing high demand, and we have a product that is very handcrafted,” the executive chairman of Hermès, Axel Dumas, told The Guardian. “It takes 15 hours [to create] an Hermès bag. Even if there’s a lot of demand, I’m not going to start doing them in 13 hours to raise production.” Proof, as if we ever needed it, that in the era of mass consumption, nothing is more precious than an Hermès handbag.
