For his debut Fall Winter 2024 menswear show for Gucci, Sabato De Sarno delivers a collection that defies social media’s hunger for viral moments for a new sartorial vitality at Milan Fashion Week.

When the Italian designer first revealed his vision last September with Ancora, his Spring Summer 2024 womenswear show, it carried the weight of anticipation of what a reboot at Gucci was going to look like. After seven years of Alessandro Michele’s decadence, whose own debut show was such a cultural reset, it was almost expected that something of similar grandeur would make its way down the runway.

Rather, what we got was a WARDROBE. Capitals emphasised. Sumptuously tailored, elegant and utterly wearable clothes that spoke to functional luxury. De Sarno’s reset was an embrace of subtlety.

This subtlety was mirrored in his follow up menswear collection. Also dubbed Ancora and housed in an identical black box (different location), De Sarno’s take on a Gucci menswear was a mirror of this subtlety. Right down to the matching opening looks: same bag, same coat, same silhouette just different pants with a male model.

De Sarno’s love of outerwear was on display from the jump: long, trailing coats that were spliced right up the back so that they billowed out behind them as they walked the runway. A new treatment to the GG monogram made its way into suits, bags and coats, a shadow effect that gave it a three-dimensional appeal. Suits were brought back from the deliberately awkward to sleeker cuts but not without detail: deep creases worked into the knees, elbows and waist while half-breasted blazers further modernised the cut. The chunky loafer was translated into an updated take on the “brothel creeper”.

In a contextually novel move, De Sarno hasn’t shown interest in eradicating the touch of his predecessor(s). Rather, they’re now part of the DNA of the house he is now shaping. A splash of chartreuse green, peach suiting a la Michele; the lean sensuality of Ford, the romanticism of Giannini were there. But this is De Sarno’s world now and the language that he is building to communicate the new world at Gucci is no one else’s voice but his own.

There’s nothing quite like proving your detractors wrong and for his sophomore show, and debut menswear collection, at Gucci Sabato De Sarno has done just that. This author included, in complete transparency. And that feels good.

The Trailer For Zoë Kravitz’s Directorial Debut Has Landed And Are We All Having A Good Time?

Serving Looks: Zendaya’s Epic ‘Challengers’ Press Tour Fashion Proves She’s Game For Anything

Pieces From Vivienne Westwood’s Personal Wardrobe Will Soon Go On Sale

Entering Into Evidence: Everything Taylor Swift Has Worn For Her ‘Tortured Poets Department’ Album So Far

New Kicks On The Block: R.M.Williams Is Expanding Their Well-Heeled Footprint

Horoscopes April 22–28: Do You Need To Catch Your Breath?