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This London Fashion Week is shrouded by a reverence for Queen Elizabeth II, whose state funeral is being held today. For a designer like Erdem Moralıoğlu, showing on the eve of such a momentous event presented a unique challenge. Moralıoğlu is much loved by the royal family, Kate Middleton, the new Princess of Wales, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, and Sophie, Countess of Wessex, are among his fans. How to strike a tone of solemn respect while also showing a collection that was designed months ago?
As expected, Erdem hit the balance perfectly. Spring/Summer 2023 itself was inspired by museum conservators, a less-discussed but nonetheless fascinating aspect of the art world. “I was thinking about obsession and the boundless pursuit of preservation,” he told Vogue UK before the show. “Looking at the team restoring an 18th-century gown, I became obsessed with the complex under-structures built in order to save the garment. There was something so interesting about the scientific, almost forensic intervention.”
Moralıoğlu spent long periods of time working with the conservators at the British Museum, so it was fitting that he presented the collection in the Museum’s courtyard. It was a moving, slightly eerie setting—models walked through the stone columns to a haunting orchestral soundtrack, as the sun was beginning to set. The gowns were quintessential Erdem—beautifully draped, some affixed with structured bodice detailing, others with delicate floral embroidery. The hair and makeup was inspired by royal portraits.
Erdem himself said he was particularly moved by the remarkable final trio of dresses, which were inspired by the tulle structures of 18th century gowns that he watched being restored by the conservators at the Victoria & Albert Museum. The delicate overlays of tulle, including cascading veils in sombre black and white tones, felt like an intentional homage to Her Majesty—and yet this was entirely accidental. Erdem is a brand with a visible and loving reverence for the past, so perhaps it’s no surprise that Moralıoğlu designed the perfect clothing to mark this pivotal moment in British history.
