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Invitations tend to set the tone for a runway show, and Diesel’s did just that. It was a giant box of Diesel-branded Durex condoms—the same Diesel-branded Durex condoms that appeared in cascading piles along the runway itself. There were 200,000, to be exact, and each will go to good use. Later in the year they’ll be handed out for free in Diesel stores the world over. Talk about a compelling brand partnership.
Still, Glenn Martens’ latest show for Diesel (his short tenure has already turned the once flagging Italian brand into the hottest name on the Milan Fashion Week calendar) was anything but bland shock value. The set may have been social media-breaking (as was the appearance of performance artist Alexis Stone as a slightly-too-convincing Jennifer Coolidge), but the fashion was focused and sharp.
Martens has played no small part in the return of all things Y2K. The Belgian designer first found a cult following with his label Y/Project, and he has since been honoured with the invitation to design guest collections for Jean Paul Gaultier (to rave reviews). Martens’ genius is his deft ability to make the silhouettes of the late ’90s and early 2000s look fresh again. And those skills were on full display again for Fall/Winter 2023, courtesy of super low-rise jeans, moto jackets, and acid wash. Knits were deconstructed and featured oversized hoods, satin skirts were low-slung on the hips and styled with delicate chains (very Christina Aguilera circa 2002).
Some looks were strangely apocalyptic—camo print, super-distressed denim bomber jackets, and crystal-embellished dresses so sheer, it appeared they had simply wasted away over time. You’re likely to see most of the pieces on front row star Julia Fox (whose two-year-old son, Valentino, was in tow) and Haley Lu Richardson (A.K.A Portia from White Lotus), a new legion of It-girls who, like the new Diesel, have fun and don’t take themselves too seriously. The world can feel a little apocalyptic these days anyway. Martens may be onto something when he says we’d better look fabulous when the end of days finally arrives.
