Courtesy of Chanel

“I fought to make a design that was strong, that was unique, that – more than just launching a single collection – would become an eternal reference,” former artistic director of Chanel, Jacques Helleu, once said.

First conceived in 1987, the Chanel Première redefined watchmaking conventions in a world that at the time was largely governed by masculine codes. Three decades later and the uniquely contemporary watch has made a highly-anticipated reappearance in its original version and in its most cherished quality: timeless appeal.

Courtesy of Chanel

The Première dial and beveled glass are instantly recognisable by their octagonal shape. It is directly inspired by the beloved N°5 perfume bottle, which in turn recalls the outline of place Vendôme, which Gabrielle viewed from her suite at the Ritz. The iconic cue is combined with an interwoven leather and chain strap influenced from the quilted Chanel bag.

In its incredibly considered design, the details are refined and pared back. A black lacquer dial is set within an octagonal steel case and covered in 18k gold. There are no numerals or indices, no second hand or date display. Under the beveled glass are two hands finished in gold while a crown set with an onyx cabochon completes the two-tone geometry.

Courtesy of Chanel

In 1987, for the launch of the Première, the French fashion house opened two dedicated boutiques – in Paris at 40 avenue Montaigne and in Geneva at 43 rue du Rhône – followed in 1990 by place Vendôme. In 2022, as Chanel Watchmaking and Fine Jewellery finds its new home in the completely redesigned townhouse at 18 place Vendôme, the Première returns to the spotlight.

To celebrate the return of a House icon, Korean-American model and artist Soo Joo Park becomes the face of the Premiére watch. “Wearing the Première watch is like wearing a little of the spirit of CHANEL and of Paris on your wrist. I love the timelessly classic and singularly iconic design that encapsulates the essence of the CHANEL spirit,” she says.

The Chanel Première Original Edition Watch launches on October 1.