Over the years at Chanel Haute Couture shows, we have seen many a beauty look: punkish hair, floral motifs, immaculate skin and a signature scarlet lip. But last night at the Paris’ Grand Palais Éphémère, the spring summer ’22 collection came with an unexpected — even polarising — beauty detail: extremely heavy use of black liner.

Those who tuned in to the incredibly beautiful presentation — opened by none other than Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback — would have noticed a handful of models walked the runway with a single smudged black eye. At first it felt confusing, but as always the case with Chanel, the look was deliberate and steeped with meaning, said to be inspired by pre-war avant garde creatives (as the entire show hinged on the ’20s, ’30s and Constructivism movement).

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: Jade Nguyen walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

All remaining models wore a heavy-set, soft-focus double wing, presumably crafted from a pencil or powder shadow. Brows were strong, skin was polished but natural, and lips were lacquered with a subtle pinky-coral gloss, lifting the otherwise dark beauty aesthetic.

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

As for the hair, Chanel did their French best. Instead of a uniform style, it was either worn out or swept into a low ponytail with a deep side part. Texture-wise the hair was soft, clean, shiny but with natural movement; a done-but-undone finish that’s synonymous with the house of Chanel.

Despite the quirks, it was still an intricate and thoughtful display of beauty — not to mention a boundary-breaking approach for a brand that usually keeps things classic.

Scroll on for a few of our favourite moments.

PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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