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When I asked Tom Pecheux about the makeup look at the Brandon Maxwell FW2020 makeup look he answered, “the makeup doesn’t matter.” Not the brilliant beauty insight I was hoping for, but the creative director of course had his reasons: “It’s not about features or products. It’s about the girl and the clothes and looking gorgeous.” Fair call Mr Pecheux. But of course, seamless colour and undetectable texture are more often than not one of the toughest concepts to nail when it comes to beauty. But at Brandon Maxwell, it was done with finesse.
Pecheux used MAC Cosmetics on the night, gently buffing super sheer foundation into the skin thoroughly before using a warm, soft colour washed high across the cheeks. Pecheux finished with dewy highlighter (the product used was new: MAC Cosmetics Face Glaze Strobe Cream). If you’re trying to emulate a similar look but have gone too heavy on foundation, take a note from Pecheux and use a little warmed face oil and press onto foundation. You’ll get a thinner, more translucent result. Eyes were elongated with the faintest flick and the most subtle individual lashes. The reason for individual lashes rather than a full set was, as explained by Pecheux, “I’m not a big fan of Cardi B.” Noted! While features where non-competing, a light coat of soon-to-launch MAC Cosmetics Powder Kiss Liquid Lipstick was used in a soft peachy shade to impart a little plush definition.
Before makeup, skin was prepped with 111Skin sheet and eye masks for a plump, fresh complexion (and one that doesn’t look like it’s walking its fifth show straight). And in true Maxwell fashion, models ran on the power of Shake Shake burgers. Dinner and a show – the best kind of NYFW!
The honest admissions from Chepeux were aligned with Maxwell’s take on fashion week this season. The veteran designer spoke out on Instagram during the week, musing about pressure and creativity and the anxiety that plagues so many designers, himself included. He posted the following excerpt on social media: “The one thing no one talks about leading up to fashion week is all the insecurities you face as a creative person. It’s the craziest emotional rollercoaster I’ve ever experienced, and it gets harder for me to confront the older I get.”
It seemed beauty echoed the sentiment, using expertly applied, natural makeup to enhance the beauty of the model and the collection, stripping back the excess and just focusing on the vision. A different take, but a really special one at that.
See more backstage notes from NYFW here.