Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

As far as ‘most anticipated shows’ go, Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Bottega Veneta was an undisputed frontrunner for the fall winter ‘22 season. A 35-year-old with an impressive design pedigree that includes stints at Balenciaga, Celine, and Calvin Klein with Raf Simons, Blazy was the ready-to-wear design director at Bottega Veneta when his then-boss, Daniel Lee, abruptly announced his departure last October. The story of lesser known in-house designers stepping into the limelight has been a popular one in fashion since Alessandro Michele’s triumphant runway debut in 2015. Tracee Ellis Ross, Julianne Moore, and Euphoria star Jacob Elordi were among those who turned out to see how Blazy fared.

He fared very well. The fall winter ‘22 collection did a perfect job of marrying the ‘New Bottega’ staples of Lee’s tenure with his own recognisable stamp. The opening look was a case in point: taken from afar it looked the quintessential minimal outfit: low-rise blue jeans and a white vest top. On closer inspection, you’ll see that the tank and jeans are actually made out of leather—a Bottega Veneta staple. The look was an embodiment of Blazy’s new ethos for the brand: clothes that make more sense IRL than they do on Instagram. “I think luxury is something you feel rather than see,” he told Harper’s BAZAAR US. “It is much more personal and emotive for the person wearing the clothes than the ones looking at them.”

Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

This sentiment is simple but in an era of rampant ‘buying for the gram’-fueled consumerism it feels profound. In many ways Daniel Lee became a victim of his own success at Bottega Veneta. Almost overnight, he transformed a heritage brand best known for its understated leather goods into the buzziest brand on planet earth. Everyone from minimalist-obsessed Scandi fashion bloggers through to the entirety of the Kardashian family were cloying to get their hands on one of his puffy pouch bags, woven leather mules, or oversized shearling coats. Lee’s one-time mentor, Phoebe Philo, built Celine’s reputation on quiet desirability, but no matter what he seemed to do at Bottega (deleting the brand’s Instagram account, switching runway shows for intimate ‘salon’ events) Lee couldn’t quell his own mania.

Blazy seems well-positioned to create a happy balance between Bottega’s understated heritage and its newfound popularity among trend-obsessed millennials. The pieces in FW’22 felt—to borrow an underwhelming word—cool, without feeling like they would break the internet. Navy wool coats with a flattering cocoon-style silhouette, floor-skimming leather skirts with playful volume-enhancing tassel underlays, shrunken patchwork sweaters. They felt wearable and enduring—perfect for 2022, and beyond.

Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 2022
Image: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta